Travel reviews by Mr A from Washington DC

"Armadale was an oasis for us both on our arrival in Harare at the beginning of our trip and 10 days later when we returned for COVID testing required to exit Zimbabwe.

Extensive, immaculately-tended grounds. Large, stately rooms, and showers with endless hot water (especially nice on very cold Winter mornings in Harare). Fine food, in huge portions, lovingly prepared by chef Webster. A roaring fire to warm us before we retired for the night. We could not have asked for more.

The principle attraction at Armadale is the eclectic collection of furniture, textiles, rugs, carvings, and other knick-knacks that festoon every corner of the lodge. Almost a little museum unto itself, and the living embodiment of owner Nikki Blythewood's love of things Zimbabwean (and African).

Nikki herself was the consummate host, attentive, engaged, and endlessly helpful (especially with a snag on one of our COVID exit tests). We would gladly stay at Armadale again for the simple pleasure of renewing her company."

"A fine lodge magnificently perched on a high ridge overlooking the placid Save River far below. Beautiful and expansive common areas, with gardens attracting all manner of birds and insects. Large, comfortable (if somewhat dark) chalets, each with their own impressive view of the river. Very good food, with meals served on the patios overlooking the river (and attendant wildlife). Fine, engaged service from an attentive staff.

Gonarezhou National Park is very attractive, with a wide range of game and in very good numbers. (The elephants were particularly numerous, and we often made very close approach to them by vehicle). Our trip to the Chilojo Cliffs included sightings of giraffe and two lions who sunned themselves disinterestedly when we inadvertently parked our vehicle between them and their prey.

The Chilojo Cliffs are truly spectacular (and justify the somewhat grueling drive there and back from the lodge). The view from the cliff top is absolutely stunning, including both the magnificent 'pillars' of the cliffs themselves and the vast plain of the Runde River, Gonarezhou proper, and seemingly all of Zimbabwe stretching endlessly to the north. A truly unique vista in our experience. Not to be missed.

Special commendation to our guide John. He knows the Park well and was an engaging, informative guide. The long walk we took with him one morning in the Park was one of the highlights of our time there."

"Vundu is a fine camp, magnificently located on the middle Zambezi in Mana Pools National Park. Comfortable, if somewhat dated, tents on a crest just steps away from the beautiful Zambezi. Ensuite and outdoor showers supplied with endless hot water from a wood-fired boiler. Pre-safari breakfast (including local delicacy Beefy Boveril) around the fire pit. Other meals taken in the main hall, buffet style, with all in attendance and presided over by host Nick Murray.

The highlight of Mana Pools is game, and especially elephants (which are amazingly numerous and largely habituated to human presence). Thanks to the resourcefulness of our guide, David Amyot, we had an exceptionally close encounter (1 meter) with the famous bull Boswell and even saw him rear up on his hind legs to feed in the trees. Really amazing. David also led us on a close approach to a den of wild dogs who were on the verge of weening their recently-born pups. A unique experience for us. Truly fascinating.

Any assessment of Vundu must take into account the conservation and anti-poaching efforts of Nick Murray, his impressive staff, and the Bushlife Conservancy foundation. A presentation on those efforts, and the problems they address, was truly eye-opening (if occasionally somewhat discouraging.)

We are glad to think that our stay at Vundu might have contributed in some small way to the protection of Mana Pools and its wildlife. We wish Nick and the foundation all the best."

"Our experience at Musango was largely unique among our experiences in Africa over the years. We loved it! A relaxed, slow-paced series of water-borne activities among labyrinthine coves and inlets of Lake Kariba, all hosted by naturalist and guide Steve Edwards and his wife Wendy (two of the dearest people we've met anywhere on our travels). One of our most enjoyable experiences in Africa ever!

Musango is a beautiful little lodge, astride a low-lying central ridge along an island just outside Matusadona National Park. Decoration throughout the camp is modest and tasteful. The common areas are attractive and inviting. The private chalets, which extend away in a string from the common areas, are cozy and exceptionally comfortable and provided breathtaking views of Moon-rise and Sun-rise over beautiful Lake Kariba. The food was excellent (though breakfast was a bit meagre). The service was always engaged and friendly. There's even a tame family of bush bucks to shoo away.

While the activities (birding, fishing, stargazing, simply drifting among the by-ways) may not appeal to those seeking a more typical, game-oriented experience, we found them a welcome diversion after previous stops (Gonarezhou and Mana Pools) dominated by vehicle-based safari. If nothing else, they allowed us to bask in the warmth and generosity of Steve, a guide almost impossibly well-versed in the history of Southern Rhodesia, Zimbabwe, Lake Kariba, and Matusadona (where he was warden), and, as befits such experience, a true raconteur. For us, a truly unique and rewarding experience.

For those so inclined, we highly recommend a visit to BaTonga fishing village nearby. The guidebooks are quite correct in describing it a 'non-tourist' experience. Eye-opening and illuminating, with a chance to spread some happiness (and cavities) by giving out suckers to the throngs of children."

"A really luxurious stopover for those poised to transfer to a camp somewhere in distant Tanzania.

The dark wood bungalows are both beautiful and comfortable. Each has its own private deck.

The grounds are a working coffee plantation, which is at once attractive and intriguing. (The tour of the plantation is a pleasant little diversion.) The food and service are of sufficiently high quality that locals come in just for meals (especially brunch).

A very pleasant place that we'd be happy to visit again."

"Superlatives barely suffice to characterize our experience at Greystoke Mahale.

The lodge is beautiful in design and layout and is situated in what may well be the most magnificent location (along the shore of Lake Tanganyika at the base of the soaring Mahale Mts) of any lodge we've visited in Africa. The simple bandas are extremely comfortable. The menu was distinctive, with many imaginative elements, and the food, much of it locally-sourced, was delicious. The service was absolutely top-notch, provided by guides Butati and Matias, and Masudi and the other staff, with attentiveness and real flair.

The sole activity at Greystoke is tracking chimps, and what an activity it is. The chimps are simply fascinating, gregarious and endlessly social as they go about their business with almost complete disregard for human presence. And the guides provide a notably illuminating supplemental experience, with a steady stream of information about the individuals and families involved, their histories, and the particulars of their complex behavior. Highly, highly recommended.

( Those who've tracked gorillas in Rwanda/Uganda should be aware that chimps are much more active and mobile than gorillas, and spend much time in the trees, and that gives rise to a very different kind of tracking experience. We suspect that most will join us in finding the two experiences equally rewarding. But they are very different. )

We single out hosts Barbara and Fabio for special praise. Any luxury lodge in Africa should meet various expectations. When a lodge consistently exceeds them, as Greystoke did, special recognition is due. At almost every turn (including the marvelous menu) our time there was simply, but subtly better than at almost any other lodge we've ever visited.

All in all, a really notable, really wonderful lodge experience."

"A comfortable, functional travel hotel in downtown Dar es Salaam.

The hotel was still operating under the strictures of COVID procedures, and probably wasn't quite at its best. Even so, the staff was responsive and efficient, the rooms were nice, and the food in the restaurants was good.

The rooftop bar (which was not fully open on weekdays) provides an excellent view of the harbor, and comings and goings of ferries and other vessels supply a nice back-drop for a glass of wine; it also has a pretty nice billiards table."

"Fundu Lagoon has much to appeal to those looking for a few quiet days on the beach at the end of a safari adventure. The lodge is nicely situated among mangrove forests on an expansive beach. The area is entirely free of the crowds and congestion we found on Zanzibar on an earlier trip.

The tented rooms are large and comfortable. The meals were quite good, with excellent soups, and the meal service was attentive and efficient. The dive center is quite good, and the diving/snorkeling at nearby Misali Island was well worth the trip. The African Sunsets from the over-the-water tiki bar are glorious (even with the lodge being oriented predominately toward the south rather than the west).

That said, there is a certain air of tiredness about the lodge, with rooms and facilities both somewhat dated and not invariably maintained to a high standard. And the service (the dining room and dive center excepted) was not always as attentive, or even as available, as we would have liked.

We would like to single out the lodge manager for special thanks in connection with the COVID test we required to exit Tanzania. Not only did he encourage us take the test while still on Pemba, he helped us register for it and arranged for a medic from Mkoani to administer it. A minor snag occurred on our return to Dar es Salaam, which almost certainly would have prevented a timely test for exit from Tanzania. Thanks to his efforts the Dar test unnecessary, and we avoided untold anxiety."

"See previous comments on hotel"

"A fine higher-end option in Kigali.

Well located in sprawling Kigali, within walking distance of at least one good restaurant and short driving distance of the Genocide Memorial.

Attractive and comfortable outdoor areas. A very good breakfast buffet. Very attentive service."

"A small, attractive tented lodge toward the southern end of Akagera National Park. A beautiful lakeside location amid the plains of eastern Rwanda. Consistent with a low-impact approach to lodging, rather basic but entirely adequate facilities. Simple but comfortable tents. Dining on a deck overlooking beautiful Lake Ihema. Yummy meals cooked in the coals of the central fire pit and served buffet style. A small number of tents makes for a small number of guests and contributes to a sense of intimacy. Fine, attentive service.

Game in the Park was somewhat lacking, other than hippos. The game we did see was congregated toward the northern part of the Park, which necessitated in a long day of driving to and from the Lodge. The views from the western ridge of the Park toward the chain of lakes below are really spectacular.

The Park is several hours by vehicle east of Kigali (the point from which travel to any other part of Rwanda commences), so that any trip which involves travel from the Lodge to a location other than Kigali will almost certainly require a full day's drive. The roads in Rwanda are quite good, but some might find a long day's drive in Rwanda very taxing."

"A really beautiful lodge, set amid a tea plantation just beyond the western edge of Nyungwe Forest National Park. Beautiful views of the plantation and the mountains of the Park to the immediate east. Luxurious, modern facilities.

Extremely comfortable rooms with decks looking out on forest through which monkeys traveled routinely. Excellent food at all meals. Wonderful service by a staff continually committed to providing a top-class experience. In a distracting oddity, muzak plays at all hours of the day in the main lodge building.

The Park itself is very attractive and gives some idea of the flavor and beauty of Rwanda before deforestation. Excellent primate tracking and hiking in and around the Park. Tracking of the colobus monkeys occurred not more than 500 meters from the Lodge, and the monkeys were abundant and highly accessible. The canopy walk in the Park was beautiful and exhilarating (in a terrifying way)."

"A large lodge, exceptionally well located in the shadow of Volcanoes National Park. Absolutely magnificent views of the chain of volcanoes in the Park. Dated, somewhat dilapidated common areas and rooms. Somewhat uncomfortable rooms (especially in the cold of morning and late of day) useful almost solely for sleeping. Cafeteria style dining in order to accommodate the very large number of guests. Average food. Attentive dining service by a large, well-meaning staff. Good service otherwise, especially the complementary boot-cleaning available to those returning from a muddy hike.

Words cannot adequately describe primate tracking in the Park, whether gorillas or golden monkeys. It is simply an experience of a lifetime.

The lodge is excellently located amid the various jumping-off points for tracking. Two days of gorilla tracking provide the opportunity for many points of comparison in tracking experiences and is recommended. For those with time and/or who are seeking additional pre-tracking acclimatization to altitude, the nature walk is recommended for its beauty and its solitude (we were the only visitors on our particular walk)."

"Highly recommended as a satisfactory airport travel hotel.

Amazingly convenient. Clean and comfortable. Decent food generally, and a very good breakfast buffet.

A more-than-adequate way station amid wherever your travels in southern Africa may take you."

"Excellent does not suffice to characterize Ibo Island Lodge. A unique and beautiful lodge, lovingly and wonderfully restored within three marvelous historical buildings. Huge, comfortable rooms with high ceilings and windows,unique and attractive local appointments, and expansive verandas opening onto the water nearby Excellent food at all meals. Absolutely first-rate service from a committed, knowledgeable, and extremely attentive staff. A glorious roof-top deck/restaurant providing magnificent views of the African sunset over the mangrove swamps to the west.

A variety of unique and really engaging activities provided by a committed staff with real flair. The half-day dhow safari to the Lodge's private sandbar (including a return under sail) was a real treat, and the guided tour of the town was by turns informative and fascinating.

Ibo Island itself is utterly charming and distinctive in its run-down way, with echos of many periods of history around every succeeding corner. Highly, highly recommended as a destination to anyone intrigued by the idea of a dip into the history of eastern Africa."

"A truly beautiful luxury resort set on its own private island amid the magnificent Quirimbas Archipelago.

Luxurious facilities. Private, comfortable, well appointed rooms looking out over the waters. (The west-facing Kusi villas are better-located and much more private and are highly recommended over the Kaskazi Vills.) Excellent food at all meals. Dinner is served at a different location each evening, including within a baobab grove in the middle of the island (a really extraordinary experience). Absolutely first-rate service, including a dedicated server for all meals and drinks. Excellent staff, helpful, engaged, and supportive.

Excellent activities in the waters of the Quirimbas. A very good house reef immediately offshore provides excellent snorkeling. Very good diving (if not quite the quality at Azura Benguerra off Vilankulos). Wonderful kayaking, including medium-distance trips to nearby Ilha Quirimba and around the island itself. Good wildlife, including tropical fish and turtles. Great short hikes on the island itself among a large number of very impressive baobab trees.

The pump failed near the end of our stay, and our room was without water for the last 24 hours of our stay."

"A very comfortable first stop on a trip south from Windhoek. Wonderful views of the Kalahari from cozy cabins situated atop ochre-colored dunes.

Very attractive commons and outdoor dining areas, tame springbok included. An excellent gift shop!"

"The first view of Fish River Canyon from the Lodge is quite literally breath-taking, more than adequate recompense for a long and somewhat grueling drive in on the access road.

Extremely comfortable cabins of modern design perch atop the west rim of the Canyon. Incredible views in all directions. Very attractive common areas with fine, attentive service. The day-trip drive into the Canyon (with a swim in the Fish River) was well worth the time and effort, and our guide (Paul) was excellent. Extremely windy at times, especially in the late afternoon.

An excellent place!"

"A comfortable travel hotel at the end of the long drive to Luderitz from the Fish River Canyon, but not much more. Well located in town on a point overlooking water on three sides.

Attractive outdoor areas for enjoying fish-andf-chips in the brisk sea air. A disappointing restaurant with poor service (though the presence of an international windsurfing/kitesurfing festival probably contributed).

While Luderitz itself has relatively little in the way of tourist attractions, the drive between Luderitz and Aus is amazing, with the Namib-Nakluft Desert on full display in all its arid beauty,"

"The Desert Horse Inn was a very nice surprise -- attractive and well located just outside of Aus. Very comfortable and attractive rooms/lodges (with a U.S. Western flavor). One of the very nice features were several hiking options nearby in very attractive country.

You had several trails to pick from and all were well-blazed and with outstanding views. We didn't even think about running into animals until we hit the first troop of baboons. The main area had an attractive outdoor seating area for drinks and the dining room was just above with tables sprinkled around the balconies if you wanted to sit outside. While we didn't stay there, we walked through the camp grounds, which also looked quite nice. Just down the road in Aus is the Banholf guesthouse, worth the trip for a nice lunch. The food was excellent as was the service and the setting.

The guide book suggests there is a good gift shop at the DHI, but I'd have to disagree with that."

"Anything this close to Sossusvlei is going to be excellent, and it was. This was a very nice camp, with attractive accommodations, and fantastic views of the desert. Sunsets over the dunes were wonderful and watching the balloons float over the horizon was also very nice in the early morning.

First rate, food and service - typical of Wilderness Safari camps. The guided trip to Sossusvlei - breathtaking - was well worth it. The guides know how to navigate the deeps sands and had interesting information to share. It is easy to see why Sossusvlei is one of the crown jewels of Nambian travel.

The only downside was the wind and ensuing sandstorm. But that's mother nature and part of the Nambian package."

"The new annex of the Organic Square was really quite attractive - leaning toward a self-catering air. Comfortable and very clean modern rooms. The back rooms where we stayed were away from the street and therefore quieter. All the rooms overlook nice and neat small gardens and each has a small private sitting area.

A largely continental breakfast in the A.M - pretty good. The manager was exceptionally friendly and helpful -- recommended places to go and and even made dining reservations for us. The hotel is pretty well located though not in the dead center of town. It was easy to walk everywhere - and wandering the streets is a pleasant way to spend the day in Swapkopmund.

The Pelican Point kayaking day trip to Walvis Bay was excellent. Many birds on the drive out and there, really stunning sand swept views, and huge colonies of seal that you can kayak right up to. Our guide was especially good - laid back, informative and loved his job. A winning combination all around."

"Wonderfully located atop and around a small hillock in Damaraland near the mountain ridge that includes Twyfelfontein.

Very large, comfortable tented cabin rooms, with decks looking out on the mountains beyond. Brilliant night-time skies with endless banks of stars. Extremely attractive common areas. Excellent food. Especially friendly and helpful service that even included tentative lessons at Khoisan. Very quiet and peaceful (when the wind isn't blowing), so you can hear your neighbors cough.

The morning drive by Doro Nawas to Twyfelfontein was very informative; the separate guided tour of the site itself was extremely interesting, as was a later visit to the Damaraland Living Museum."

"A charming, laid-back camp with the feel of an old-school safari as befitting its origins as a 19th century farmhouse. The tented room was small but comfortable with a deck that opened nicely onto areas filled with wandering game. The common areas were extremely open and well-situated for viewing the water hole very nearby. The game blind accessible by easy walk from the common areas afforded absolutely amazing close-up views of various game (including a large pride of lions), and the floodlit water hole attracted several rhinos for more amazing views.

Andersson's location just outside the southern gate (Andersson's/Okaukuejo) to Etosha makes it an ideal jumping off point for visits to the park and the water holes in the vicinity of Okaukuejo, including Okondeka,the water hole with the highest concentration and variety of game we saw on our four separate visits to the park.

Staff inform us that Andersson's is about to undergo an upgrade of facilities, to reduce the number of cabins and provide a more 'luxurious' experience, We hope that the camp doesn't lose its distinctive 'retro' charm in the process."

"A very small, deluxe camp. Very large, comfortable tented rooms with decks that opened onto the camp's private water hole. Spacious and open common areas with a dining area looking out on the water hole. A very nice fire pit. Pulses of game from the very small (guinea fowl) to the very large (giraffe). Extremely attentive and engaged staff. Excellent food and service.

A guided walking safari along the edge of Fisher's Pan was extremely interesting, with a guide (David) who seemed especially engaged by his duties. Our drive into Etosha was less rewarding, partly due to windy conditions, partly to a paucity of game (other than a black rhino), and partly due to a guide who did not make much effort to do other than drive,

The Onguma complex is generally well-located near the East Gate of Etosha, but the access road from the Onguma entrance to the camps themselves is long and somewhat jarring."

"This is a pretty amazing camp built into the boulders and practically hidden from view as your drive up to it. Really comfortable and attractive rooms, including an open air bathroom integrated into boulders -- one whole wall was a rock face. The common area was perched atop a boulder with great views, and nice dining areas. If you are a birder you could sit on the observation deck all day watching a variety of colorful and interesting birds come and go. The service was attentive and very, very friendly.

This camp also has several well-blazed hiking trails among the boulders. You can go on a guided walk or on your own. We did both. Our guide, Manuel, was excellent -- nice and well informed about the various flora and fauna. Highly recommend taking advantage of both options.

The nearby town of Omaruru aspires toward the artistic and has engaging ambience - worth a trip and a beer."

"Beautiful location on the Zambezi River, and the villas really made the environment special.

The food was excellent -- among the best on our trip-- and the staff was especially helpful and accommodating."

"The staff was extremely friendly and interested in sharing their experiences and also hearing about your experiences. They also made sure all of our needs were met and everyone was very knowledgeable about the area and the wildlife. We learned a ton.

There is a trade off by staying at Muchenje -- you are a bit removed from the Chobe central riverfront so nicely more quiet. That means you have to drive farther afield to get the riverfront. That tradeoff is an individual preference of course."

"Footsteps harkens back to safaris of a bygone era while still being extremely comfortable and pretty high end for bucket showers (always with hot water). This was our hands down favorite stop of the trip. A small camp made the experience very intimate and tailored to our every need.

The food was five star -- all cooked over an open fire. The staff extremely attentive and friendly. The accommodations were extremely comfortable. And the animals wandered through the camp making for a truly special experience.

We would highly, highly recommend to anyone that wants a real experience with lots of comfort, but doesn't need all the "conveniences" of the developed world."

"Vumbura was everything we expected from this high end accommodation and location. Extremely, luxe and comfortable. Small and intimate, Superb staff and excellent food. Wonderful wildlife presented by engaging and knowledgeable guides.

The quintessential high-end Delta experience."

"Convenient, comfortable, and well-staffed. A more-than-accetabple evening stop-ever amid our adventures."

"A wonderful option for those looking for an alternative to helicoptering directly to the Mozambique island resorts. A beautiful location on and overlooking the channel to the Bazaruto Archipelago.

Attractive rooms with wonderful views. Excellent food and wine in an intimate restaurant. A warm and welcoming staff. One of our favorite spots!"

"Azura Benguerra was all you'd expect from an intimate and high-end beach resort. Private villas with direct access to the beach and azure waters of the Indian Ocean.

Exceptionally attentive staff that catered to all of our needs with a genuine smile. Excellent food and variety. If you like to dive or snorkel -- exceptional reef opportunities with an abundance of sea life.

Take a drive around the island too -- it is charming with beautiful unspoiled vistas."