Nxabega Okavango Tented Camp: Our full report
Nxabega Okavango Tented Camp sits within a 70km² private concession in Botswana's Okavango Delta.
To the west of Chief's Island, it is surrounded by a patchwork of mature woodlands and seasonally flooded grassland, interspersed with islands of real-fan palms, jackalberries, sausage trees and wild-fig trees. As a result it can offer both game drives and seasonal mokoro and boating activities. Formerly known as Nxabega Safari Camp, the camp's pedigree is good, and it aims for a very high standard of guiding, food, and comfort.Nxabega is nestled on its own island under the shady canopy of tall jackalberry trees, overlooking a permanent floodplain. It's a varied and, in parts, very scenic spot, enhanced by the presence of ilala (real fan) palm trees.
Following a warm welcome on arrival, you’ll step onto a raised walkway, passing a well-stocked curio shop as you take in the views of the floodplain beyond.
The camp's nine tented chalets are connected to the main area by a straw pathway. All benefit from the evening breeze cooling system, but have a classic safari tented feel, with modern creature comforts and clever interior design. Each is accessed by wooden steps that lead up to a wooden door with a lockable latch.
Spotless canvas walls sit beneath a vaulted roof that extends over a substantial deck. Here you'll find a shady sitting area with two folding canvas chairs and a circular table. Beyond is a hanging daybed and a small folding table, shaded by a series of circular wooden poles whose waterproof covering is convenient in the rainy season. We enjoyed relaxing here on our last stay in January 2024.
Mesh screen doors lead inside each tented chalet, to reveal a large bed decked out with white linen topped with a bedspread embroidered with tribal designs and a pair of white cushions with a grey pattern. To each side of the attractive canvas headboard is an electric bronze reading lamp set on a wooden nightstand. You'll also find a wooden vanity desk topped with a large mirror, a three-speed pedestal fan, and a simple cushioned chair with a pedestal lamp, which provides pretty good lighting at night.
Separating the bedroom from the bathroom is a stylish canvas wall together with a three-section wooden wardrobe, which houses a large safe, a laundry bag, a shelf for luggage, and a basket with mosquito repellent, bug spray, and emergency foghorn. A small minibar is stocked with bottled water and local beer, and they also provide an ice bucket, spirits and tall glasses, along with a selection of homemade nougat, biltong and cookies.
The bathroom is completely open in design with a rainshower cascading onto wooden boards, two white ceramic sinks and two silver canisters of water. More stylish canvas panels enclose the flush toilet. A zipped door leads out to a wooden deck with an outdoor rainshower, surrounded by a thatched wall for privacy. Toiletries and fabric slippers are supplied.
For families, Nxabega also has a two-bedroom unit, its two identical chalets connected by a covered canvas walkway.
Nxabega’s main area is characterised by teak floors, locally crafted fittings, wildlife memorabilia and African artefacts. Relaxing couches, large cushions, a library and board games define the two lounges, where fireplaces lit on cold nights add ambience as well as warmth.
The larger of the two lounges connects to an interactive food and coffee bar, where staff are on hand to serve you, and a large dining area, where one long communal table or individual tables can be set up either indoors or outdoors.
Raised decking links Nxabega's main area to a large plunge pool and pool deck, screened by natural timbers. There are plenty of sunloungers and cushioned chairs, positioned overlooking the floodplain, but it's the attention to detail which we think is a forte: you'll even find a cooler box filled with chilled drinks, which the staff will gladly arrange to include your favourites on request. Close to the pool there is also a dedicated massage sala, with a resident masseuse.
The Nxabega concession offers a mixture of land- and water-based activities: guests can explore the Okavango Delta by 4WD game-drive vehicle, and – in season – by motorboat or mokoro, and it's also possible to explore on foot (although this should be requested in advance wherever possible). All activities are accompanied by a fully trained and licensed guide and a tracker.
Boat trips at Nxabega are very flexibly organised. On a previous visit we enjoyed a short morning cruise and even tried our hand at fishing (though fishing is not allowed in January and February, the breeding season). Our guide and tracker kept us entertained and informed, even convincing us to try some of the roots that they grew up eating. Full-day boat excursions are also an option. Typically, these will leave the boat station in the early morning, stopping at various points along the way before lunch is served on one of the islands.
Historically we've noted that the dry-season game viewing at Nxabega can be unreliable. Some travellers have great game experiences here; others have been disappointed. We've concluded that during the “green” or wet season, from about December to April, Nxabega (and the other concessions on the west side of Chief's island) can actually be better for game than Okavango reserves that are further east or north. However, during the more classic dry season months, from about May to October, the drier reserves to the north and east of Chief's Island, and the Kwando–Linyanti Reserves, tend to have better game viewing than on the Nxabega Concession.
On our last three visits to Nxabega, (January 2024, September 2016 and November 2015) this rang true. While the concession was not dense with game on the January visit, we did have some wonderful highlights, including a brief wild dog sighting when they hunted tsessebe. Our highlight was a newly identified hyena den, where six pups of various ages let their inquisitive nature get the better of them, creating some humorous moments. Judging by Nxabega's guestbook, leopard sightings are regular too, but with water levels in the Delta in a constant state of flux, we have seen some shifts in patterns over the last couple of years, with giraffe in particular being seen less frequently in the area.
Staff – and particularly the guides – at both Nxabega and its sister camp in the Okavango, Sandibe Safari Lodge, are very well trained, and the quality of guiding we have experienced here has always been good,Expert Africa team members have consistently returned from activities having learned and seen more than they'd expected – and have felt more engaged by the guides here than in other reserves where the density of game is usually thought to be higher.
Our view
We think that Nxabega is a great safari camp, with beautiful rooms, high standards of friendly service, good guiding and imaginative food. On our last visit, what really stood out was the attention to detail and service.
During the dry season, Nxabega isn't usually top of our list for high game densities; then we think of this camp more for its water-based activities. But during Botswana's green season, when game is generally less easily seen elsewhere across the Delta, Nxabega comes into its own as a relatively good choice for game viewing.
Geographics
- Location
- Okavango Delta Safari Reserves, Botswana
- Ideal length of stay
- Three nights at Nxabega is ideal. Note that there are often some great special deals to be had when Nxabega is booked in combination with one of its sister camps: Sandibe Safari Lodge, Chobe Under Canvas, or the seasonal Savute Under Canvas.
- Directions
- Nxabega Airstrip is just 15 minutes’ drive from the camp. Maun to Nxabega is a 20-minute flight while Kasane to Nxabega is a 50-minute flight. Both flight routes can involve up to four stops along the way.
- Accessible by
- Fly-and-Transfer
Food & drink
- Usual board basis
- Full Board & Activities
- Food quality
- Great care is taken with the menu and the presentation of meals at Nxabega, and the food is generally excellent. A range of dietary requirements can be accommodated, on request.
An early breakfast is served before the morning activity. This usually includes the option of cereals, fresh fruit, juice, bread and muffins with tea and coffee. On our most recent stay, in January 2024, we enjoyed a tasty portion of eggs Benedict with crispy bacon before we departed on our flight home.
Brunch, typically an assortment of salads and a hot dish, is usually eaten at individual tables on your return from the morning activity. We enjoyed a freshly baked flatbread and avocado dip, Moroccan tomato braised chicken, caponata, fresh salad and tabbouleh, all presented at our table, amounting to an individual buffet! On our day of departure Nxabega made us a simple packed lunch of wraps, biltong, fruit and nuts.
Afternoon tea, served between 3.30pm and 4.00pm, normally consists of a light savoury snack and some form of cake. We most recently had a light spicy beetroot and lentil aperitif, chocolate and toffee scones and a small fruit salad with iced coffee. Hot drinks, iced teas and fruit juice were also on offer.
The dinner menu is usually announced by the chef as everyone gathers for pre-dinner drinks – just in case there are any last-minute changes or requests to be noted. We selected the Botswana beef fillet with a side of buttered carrots, beans and mashed potato, which was delicately presented. Dessert was Amarula ice-cream and passion-fruit sorbet. On other visits our team has enjoyed a traditional local meal at individual tables in the camp's sand boma with open firepit. This consisted of pounded beef (seswaa), grilled chicken legs and thighs, and sides of creamed spinach and rice, with a sinfully rich chocolate cake for dessert. During traditional dinners in the boma, the staff sets up a “hanging bar”, which is a large piece of flat wood hanging by chains above a tree. We thought that it provided a fun little touch.
The &Beyond team are very good at creating little surprises and wow moments. Without spoiling any future surprises to our guests, we wanted to just say that we loved the extra efforts made by the team! - Dining style
- Individual Tables
- Dining locations
- Indoor and Outdoor Dining
- Further dining info, including room service
- Generally, there is no room service at Nxabega, although by special arrangement meals may sometimes be taken in your tented chalet at standard mealtimes. Drinks may be brought to the chalets on request and placed in the small coolbox there. Note, however, that the rooms do not have telephones so you need to go to the main area to make these arrangements.
- Drinks included
- Bottled water, soft drinks, local beers and spirits and a limited selection of (usually) South African red and white wines are included. Champagne and imported wines and spirits cost extra and may need to be requested in advance.
Bottled water is supplied to all chalets, along with filtered water for brushing teeth.
Special interests
- Family holidays
- Children are welcome at Nxabega, whose staff are flexible and go out of their way to make your family safari in Botswana enjoyable. Children of six and over are accommodated on game drives at the lodge manager's discretion without the need for a private vehicle.
- See ideas for Family holidays in Botswana
- Solo Travel
- There is quite an individual focus at the &Beyond camps, including Nxabega, and they usually have a relaxed approach to activities – including 4WD safaris, bush walks and motorboat trips – ideal for sharing the amazing wildlife with like-minded solo travellers in Botswana.
- See ideas for Solo Travel in Botswana
- Honeymoons
- Set in a lush part of the Okavango Delta, Nxabega is a luxurious camp and a great choice for a Botswana honeymoon. The staff often go out of their way to include special touches and are particularly good at setting up meals in unique and inventive places.
- See ideas for Honeymoons in Botswana
- Wellbeing
- For a bit of pampering in Botswana, Nxabega Okavango Tented Camp offers a range of massage options. These can be requested and paid for whilst at the camp and may be done either in the massage sala or in the privacy of your tented chalet.
- See ideas for Wellbeing in Botswana
Children
- Attitude towards children
- Children are welcome at Nxabega.
- Property’s age restrictions
- Children under five years of age are not allowed to join the usual activities. Children aged 6–11 years are accommodated on game drives at the lodge manager's discretion. Children aged 12 and above may take part in game drives, but only children of 16 years and older may participate in guided walks and mokoro activities.
- Special activities & services
- &Beyond's WILDChild programme is filled with fun and interactive activities for young children that may involve tracking, fishing, making traditional bows and arrows, beading, crafting and painting and more. Meals tailored for children are available on request.
- Equipment
- An extra bed can be arranged for a child sharing with his or her parents, although this could make the chalet feel a little cramped. Note that no more than one triple can be accommodated in camp at any one time.
A childminding service is available at extra cost. This money is given directly to the babysitter, who is an ordinary member of the camp's staff and not a trained childminder. - Generally recommended for children
- We think that the camp’s flexible attitude and their willingness to go the extra mile makes this a reasonably suitable camp for children over the age of six years. Parents must, however, consider that the camp is unfenced, wildlife regularly wanders through camp and there is no fence around the pool.
- Notes
- The tents are all raised off the ground on decks with no railings. Children need to be closely supervised by their parents or carers at all times.
Our travellers’ wildlife sightings from Nxabega Tented Camp
Since mid-2018, many of our travellers who stayed at Nxabega Okavango Tented Camp have kindly recorded their wildlife sightings and shared them with us. The results are below. Click an animal to see more, and here to see more on our methodology.
100% success
100% success
100% success
100% success
100% success
100% success
80% success
80% success
80% success
80% success
75% success
40% success
25% success
0% success
0% success
0% success
0% success
0% success
Communications
- Power supply notes
- The camp runs on solar power, but during extended cloudy periods a generator offers a back-up charge to the battery banks.
- Communications
- Nxabega has WiFi in the rooms only; there is no cellphone reception. The camp office has radio communications with Maun, and between guides on the activities.
- TV & radio
- There is no TV or radio at Nxabega.
- Water supply
- Borehole
Health & safety
- Malarial protection recommended
- Yes
- Medical care
- All the guides and managers are first-aid trained and a first-aid kit is kept at the camp. A light-aircraft flight to Maun hospital is possible during daylight hours only, as the bush airstrips do not have any lighting at night. In the event of an emergency, medical evacuation, including after dark, is possible by helicopter.
- Dangerous animals
- High Risk
- Security measures
- Security guards escort guests to and from their chalets after dark. Each chalet contains an airhorn which guests can activate to attract attention in the event of an emergency.
- Fire safety
- There are fire extinguishers in the communal areas and outside every chalet, including notes on what to do in case of fire.
Activities
4WD Safari
Birdwatching
Boat trip
Fishing
Guided walking safari
Helicopter
Mokoro
Night drive
Extras
- Disabled access
- On Request
- Laundry facilities
- A full laundry service is included. The camp will be flexible where possible, although collections are usually at 8.00am and returned the same day, weather permitting.
- Money
- There is a small safe in every tented chalet at Nxabega. No exchange facilities are offered. Payment may be made in cash (euro, US dollars, South African rand, Botswana pula and UK sterling), or with Visa or Mastercard. Envelopes are provided in the chalets for tips (at your discretion) for both guides and trackers, and for the rest of the staff. These can be given direct or through the management. Tips may also be made by credit card and distributed as requested by the guest.
Other lodges in Okavango Delta Safari Reserves
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