Travel reviews by Ms P from London

"Returning after five years or so, I found that Mwamba is better than ever and remains one of my favourite camps in Africa.

Emma is an excellent, friendly host and the food was superb - the best we had on our trip.

Though lions were unexpectedly quiet during our few days there, we were spoilt with multiple interesting leopard sightings."

"This was my first stay at Tafika, although I have stayed at other Remote camps in both South and North Luangwa.

It's a lovely camp, with very comfortable chalets, a great position on the river and regular visits from elephants; it's a bit larger than the other camps, and was full, too, so it felt a bit busier than the other places we stayed at.

Having the Coppinger family around at mealtimes offers a great opportunity to learn about the area, and issues impacting it and Zambia.

In terms of game-viewing, wild dogs were a highlight."

"As a longtime fan of walking in North Luangwa and Mwaleshi Camp, I was ambivalent about Takwela (and broader efforts to develop the park, understandable though this may be).

However, it is a lovely, small camp, on a beautiful site with a carmine colony on its river bank, and I enjoyed seeing bits of the park that I would not have been able to from Mwaleshi on foot.

At neither camp were we aware of the other, which is a big plus.

Though animals may be more shy than in the south, between us and the other guests there were elephant, lion, wild dog and leopard sightings."

"I've lost count of how many times I've been to Mwaleshi, and it remains one of my favourite places in Africa.

The walking safari there is second to none, with Brent once again providing excellent guiding, while the camp itself - with its staggering sunrises over the Mwaleshi - remains the my ideal for getting away from it all.

This time, hyena sightings were a particular highlight."

"Katambuga House is a stone's throw from Arusha airport, so an ideal place to overnight before an early flight.

But it's more than just convenient: it's in a lovely, quiet spot; the rooms are spacious and spotless, and the bathroom boasts an impressive shower; and there's an elegant swimming pool to while away an afternoon after a superb lunch on the patio.

Service was warm and friendly. Highly recommended."

"On its own, Mahale is already a magical place - the chimpanzees, the lake - but its staff, from the superb guides (we had Mwega and Butati) to everyone in camp (not least the indefatigable managers, Barbara and Fabio) make it truly exceptional.

There is, literally, nothing to fault, with highlights including superb food made from mostly locally sourced ingredients (we especially loved the fresh, light lunches) and afternoon boat cruises and swimming in the lake. We were fortunate with the weather - there were a few biblical thunderstorms, but mostly at night - and the extraordinary chimpanzees, whom we saw every day.

Treks were shorter than we expected - more than once, the chimps were barely 10 minutes outside of camp - although there was plenty of "off-roading", so it still paid to be fairly nimble. In short, one of my favourite places in Africa, right up there with Mwaleshi in North Luangwa, and one I will return to again soon."

"We only had a short evening at Rivertrees before flying out from KIA, but it was the same lovely place we remembered from a few years ago.

Beautiful grounds are a highlight, and we had an extremely pleasant dinner outside."

"I loved my stay here: there is a real sense of remoteness, on the edge of the stunning Busanga Plains, and the camp itself offers the same high standards as its sister, Musekese.

Tents are comfortable and well spread out, offering plenty of privacy; the food was excellent and guiding standards high. Highlights included a full-day drive out on the plains with Effie, with large herds of sable, roan, lechwe, buffalo and elephant; evenings at the pools nearby the camp were special, too.

Birds are very strong: James, a guide with encyclopaedic knowledge, and another guest counted some 130 different species the day I arrived. There are no other camps close by and we seldom saw another vehicle... which is exactly what I like.

Highly recommended."

"Despite several trips to Zambia over the years, this was my first visit to Kafue: I'd been wary of rumours of tsetse flies, and besides, what could best the Luangwa valley? I wish I hadn't waited for so long: Kafue is glorious, with a diversity of landscapes, animals and birds that make it an ideal complement to South Luangwa; as for tsetse flies, these were well controlled with traps and actually less of a problem than in the South park, which had an unusually bad outbreak this year.

Musekese, in combination with her sister bush camp Ntemwa, was the perfect base to explore what Kafue has to offer. Highlights included an early morning walk, during which a herd of elephants fed just metres away from us, and stunning evening boat trips on the Kafue river. The camp itself is gorgeous, right on a lagoon that attracts abundant wildlife, and chalets are spacious and well-appointed.

The food was always excellent - the best of my trip, and standards were high everywhere. Musekese perfectly reflects its impressive young owners, Phil and Tyrone, whose passion for Kafue and focus on conservation deserves strong support.

Kafue vastly exceeded my expectations and I have no doubt I will return."

"Six years after my first visit, and Mwamba is still one my favourite camps in Africa: South Luangwa's unbeatable game density and a remote, intimate bush camp is a winning combination. The camp itself has benefited from a gentle face-lift making it lovelier than ever: Craig and Lindie, who have managed the camp for three years, deserve much credit for their work.

Chalets now have charging stations of their own (as well as a fan, which I didn't use) but haven't lost their rustic allure. Sly was, once again, a reliably strong guide with a nose for leopards (we saw seven different ones in three days).

Sighting highlights also included large herds of elephant and buffalo, as well as lions hunting and feasting."

"It's a bit of a trek to get to North Luangwa, but definitely worth the effort.

The walking here is always special, and this time was no exception, with elephants, wild dogs and a pride of lions including two impressive males and six cubs ranging from 2-6 months. Mwaleshi itself is just lovely - the lighting in the chalets has been upgraded, but it is largely unchanged and perfect for it.

Next year Remote Africa will be opening a small camp near the confluence that will offer driving safaris; I will be interested to hear how that progresses."

"Rivertrees is a lovely place to stay in Arusha: lush and green, with very well-appointed, spacious rooms and good food in the restaurant.

Drinks at the bar were very reasonably priced and there's wifi in the public areas. Vervet monkeys provided some fine late afternoon entertainment.

It's about half-way between Kilimanjaro and Arusha airports, a 30-40 minute drive each. It was a convenient and very pleasant stop for a one-day layover in Arusha."

"Katavi is a beautiful park, with a good variety of landscapes and few visitors.

Game viewing is very good, although animal densities were not as high as I expected, perhaps because of extremely limited water. The exception was hippos: so many hippos, squashed into shrinking muddy pools - they made for wonderful sundowner spots!

Highlights included carefully tracking a leopard snoozing in a tree and a lioness hunting a bushbuck. Birds were excellent, too. Chada is wonderful camp, with comfortable tents, tasty food (highlights included some wonderful pork empanadas for lunch, although there were always plenty of fresh salads and fruit, too) and, above all, delightful staff, including our experienced guide, Jairu.

We were rather fortunate to share the camp with just one other couple; it felt almost decadent. Elephants visited the camp daily, which was really quite a thrill (and completely safe, thanks to the staff's care).

I would stay definitely stay there again."

"Pole Pole was a wonderful spot to chill out for a few days - the lodge is simple and rustic, with a small but very pleasant beach in front, excellent food (highlights included ceviche and a traditional Tanzanian dinner) and friendly staff.

Any time in the room was mostly spent on the wonderful veranda, which boasted a mosquito-netted day bed and lovely views of the lush gardens and the sea. Bathrooms are rather dated, however, and detracted from the overall quality, which is a shame.

I loved having tea delivered to our room each morning before breakfast, and in the evenings, the bar whipped up some seriously good cocktails, too. There's wifi by the pool, which mostly worked well.

The dive shop - a high-quality operation - is just a ten-minute walk long the beach and diving was very good, with some very impressive coral reefs."

"With a 4am departure, Kia Lodge, just a five-minute drive to Kili airport and providing free transfers, is the most convenient place to stay.

Rooms were simple and clean, and staff extremely friendly (we especially appreciated the help with our bags in the middle of the night). Food was not the highlight of our stay, but there was some decent wine on offer at very reasonable prices."

"Ole Sereni is conveniently nearby the international airport - ideal when you get in on the evening BA flight - and not far from the domestic airport the following morning.

Rooms are comfortable, although tiled floors (rooms and hallways) means there's not much to absorb noise.

There was an excellent spread at breakfast, although it was a little too early for me to admire the adjacent reserve.

Service was friendly and helpful."

"I was relocated to Kicheche Laikipia a few days before I travelled, due to the unrest in northern Laikipia a few days. It's a lovely camp, with a beautiful setting and very comfortable tents - the potted plants were an unusual but really lovely touch. The food was exceptional - as was the company of assistant manager, Andrew: I was the sole guest at times, as it was nearing the end of season, and I very much enjoyed our conversations about everything from photography to politics in Kenya.

The reserve is beautiful, with some wide open plans, and there are good herds of elephant and eland; I also had some good lion sightings. I did a walk one morning with one of the rhino conservation scouts, which I would recommend.

My guide was quite young, and perhaps didn't appreciate just how experienced a safari-goer I was, but with a vehicle to myself, I could also make suggestions or requests as needed. The overall experience was not quite as remote as I had hoped for - perhaps that is more the case in northern Laikipia, where I was due to go; here you can see twinkling lights of the town in the distance, and the reserve is still used for cattle grazing so there are many artificial watering holes, which can be a little jarring - but it was very pleasant nonetheless and I very much appreciate their last-minute hospitality."

"Having travelled extensively in Africa, this was my first time in Kenya - and I was blow away by the Mara. The rains had already begun, meaning everything was a sparkling emerald green - and the wide open vistas, so different to what I was used to from Zambia, were spectacular.

The game - especially cats: a showoff leopard, Fig, and large prides of stunning lions (those manes!) - just leaps off the landscape in front of you. Nelson was an excellent and friendly guide, and Aki was a charming host back at camp. Tents were spacious and well-equipped, including brollies and boots for the downpours (being caught in one of these on our evening drive, just as we were watching a pride of lions, was a highlight), and food was very good. The camp is especially good for photographers, with specially adapted vehicles offering loads of space for kit and well-trained guides.

Highly recommended."

"Mwamba means "heaven", and heaven it is... if you like a small, intimate bush camp that is both rustic (bucket showers only) and luxurious (a hot shower in the bush!), with a wonderful hide offering front-row seats for all the action at "the last watering hole", charming managers in Craig and Lindy and excellent guides, Mwamba is all you need. It was my fourth visit in five years and I can't think of a better place to stay at in South Luangwa, far away from the bustle around the park gates and in one of the most productive areas of South Luangwa.

The food was excellent, too, with fresh, tasty offerings including plenty of salads and fruit (perfect for hot October days). Although lion prides were somewhat quiet, I had exceptional leopard sightings every single day. One killed an impala at the watering hole and we were able to watch him on consecutive days, feeding in a tree and later dragging his prize off.

At this time of the year, the high concentration of elephants and giraffes was notable as well. In short, when I go back to South Luangwa, it'll be straight back to heaven."

"It was my third visit to Mwaleshi in as many years, and it only reinforced what I felt a year ago: that North Luangwa is one of my favourite places in the world.

Stunning scenery, fantastic sightings (especially lion and buffalo), top guiding by Brent Harris and a superb, friendly camp in one of the remotest places in Africa means that, in my book at least, it doesn't get much better than this.

I recognise it is not for everyone, however: guests should be aware that game is more dispersed than in the South, for example, and I would recommend a reasonable level of fitness to get the most out of the experience. One thing's for sure: I'll be back."

"The Kigali Serena may not be an exciting option, but it is dependable and very good: rooms were large, beds were comfortable and the shower was excellent.

Meanwhile, the pool area is really lovely, and I was surprised by the high quality of the food, not just at the remarkable buffet breakfast but also at dinner one evening."

"We loved our stay at Sabyinyo: the location is stunning, rooms are large and comfortable and food and wine were both excellent. Above all, the service was exceptional in all respects (we especially loved the unexpected treat of having our muddy boots cleaned after each day's trek).

Yes, the stairs up to the main lodge and rooms are a bit of a challenge, especially after an exhilarating morning trekking gorillas - but it's worth the effort.

Can't imagine staying anywhere else."

"The Lake Kivu Serena is not as good as its Kigali counterpart: food was especially disappointing, and the place (especially the very dated foyer) could do with a bit of a facelift. However, its beachside location makes it a lovely spot to stay at on Lake Kivu, especially after an active few days trekking.

The Congolese border and Tam Tam Beach (for much better food at Bikini Tam Tam) are just a short stroll away."

"It was my fourth visit to Kaingo in as many years. I was a little wary, given the abrupt staff changes last year, but am happy to report that things were running very smoothly.

Kaingo is a wonderful place, with a stunning location, and I am very pleased to report that the food, which was very disappointing last year, was excellent once again. I thought brunch (rather than both breakfast and lunch in previous years) worked really well, with a lovely selection of breakfast-y things as well as delicious, fresh salads and quiches.

As ever, the game viewing was spectacular. Sylvester was an excellent guide throughout our stay, informative and friendly."

"I love bush camps, and Mwamba is one of my favourites, for its relaxed feel and sense of remoteness.

One of the highlights was the hide: as it is very dry this year in the Luangwa valley, a huge range of animals, including herds of elephants, wildebeest and impala, as well as flocks of lovebirds, went to the watering hole to drink every day; one could spend hours there! The drives were superb, including a speculative one out to Kapanda lagoon where we found two lionesses and four cubs.

We kept Sylvester as our guide throughout our stay at Kaingo and Mwamba, and the continuity worked really well for me.

Food was similar to that at Kaingo, and equally good. Absolutely loved my stay there."

"It was my second year at Mwaleshi, and it cemented itself as one of my favourite camps in Africa. It's not for everyone, given its remoteness and walking-only activities (and supposed less animal density in the south), but I love it for both.

I was incredibly fortunate with my sightings, including what Special (the long-time spotter with very special eyes) said was his best walk ever: a morning with leopards, lions and wild dogs, all at very close quarters. Brent is a superb guide, and wonderful company besides.

The camp itself is simple but perfect, with delicious food and the luxury of hot showers in the evening.

Sadly, the riverbed was completely dry already, so there was no afternoon swimming in the Luangwa this time! In short, I can't recommend it enough."

"This was my third stay at Kaingo, and my only regret was that - at 3 nights - it was too short!

The game viewing was superb, as usual (one evening, we had two leopard sightings within five minutes, close to camp), even though I wasn't lucky enough to get the spectacular action sequences I was treated to last year. Not much beats having lunch on your private deck, overlooking the Luangwa (I saw hippos fighting and a huge monitor lizard making the foolish decision to enter the crocodile territory...), although a bush breakfast was also much appreciated.

Excellent guiding from Patrick again, and the hippo hide is unmissable."

"I absolutely loved the walking safari I did on the Chikoko walking trails and at Mwaleshi, in North Luangwa, with Brent Harris of Primal Pathways, staying at the Remote African camps.

I was worried eight days might be too much, especially as photography has usually been an important part of my safari holidays, but no... I could have stayed for weeks and weeks, and never tired of it! It just takes safari to a whole other level, and as someone who greatly appreciates remoteness, this was just perfect.

Mwaleshi, in particular, is a very special place: even though the game is not quite as dense as in the South park, its location on the river is just unbeatable. Brent is a superb guide; can't recommend the trip highly enough. Food was excellent, too - loved all the fresh salads!"

"This was my second visit to Kaingo, and I was worried that returning just a year after a wonderful trip I might be disappointed.

I needn't have worried: the camp itself was a friendly and comfortable as ever (and the food was excellent), and the game viewing in late August/early September was unforgettable, thanks to excellent guiding by Meyam (and his scout, Maxwell). I suspect my third day there will probably never be bettered..."

"Mwamba is a very special place, and this year's improvements - new decorations in the rooms and excellent food (on par with Kaingo) - make it feel much more luxurious than the tag "bushcamp" suggests.

As at Kaingo, excellent game viewing and guiding."

"Chongwe River Camp has a stunning location and is excellent for water activities - I particularly enjoyed learning to fish and evening canoe trips.

Food and service were both excellent, and being able to lounge by the pool in between activities was lovely. Game viewing would have been very good by most accounts, but arriving after an epic week in South Luangwa, it paled a bit by comparison."

"Kwihala is a lovely bushcamp in Ruaha - the six tents are very spacious and comfortable, and simply but stylishly decorated. Meals are collective, which provides a nice opportunity to interact with other guests as well as guides and the charming camp manager, Sara, and the quality of food was generally of a high standard. Drinks are inclusive, which was nice.

My guide was Marc, who was excellent: extremely experienced, he eagerly shared his knowledge and was also very considerate of photographer's needs. The lion and elephant sightings were superb - my best, in fact - and there was much else besides. You really get a sense for the vastness and remoteness of Ruaha - I think I saw three or four other vehicles during my entire week there - as well as wonderfully varied landscapes."

"Jongomero is a superb camp in a remote corner of already remote Ruaha - there are no other camps nearby, so you really feel as though you have the world to yourself. The camp itself is stunning, set on the banks of the Jongomero river (which was dry when I was there): the tents, on raised platforms and with thatched roofs, are huge and extremely comfortable; the balcony, with a luxurious day bed, was the perfect spot to start the day with a cup of tea watching the sky light up.

The food was excellent; I especially enjoyed lunches, which always featured lots of fresh salads. A real highlight are the people: not just Noelle and Molly, the camp's exuberant managers, and Kim, my delightful guide, but every single person providing exceptional service - there is a real sense of commitment and continuity there. Do go on a walking safari with Molly if you can (I never thought I would say this about a safari holiday, but learning about termite mounds was a highlight).

Overall, one of the best safari lodges I have stayed at in Africa."

"Comfortable hotel for a one-night stay in Dar, with expansive views and a lovely roof terrace."

"I spent three nights at Kaingo, followed by another three at Mwamba. All round, it was undoubtedly the best safari experience I have had.

Kaingo's location, perched on the river Luangwa, is stunning - and, crucially, the camp is far away from the park's busy main gate so that you seldom come across another car (and if you do, it's likely to be from Mwamba). The newly-decorated rooms are airy, spacious and charmingly decorated, and the private deck, where lunch is served, is the perfect place to while away a couple of hours before the afternoon game drive. Toiletries, including mosquito repellent, are provided, and don't miss the lovely robes!

The food was superb - I believe Honore, the Congolese chef, is a new addition to the staff, and I was very impressed by the variety and the quality of the meals produced (much of the produce coming from Shenton's own vegetable garden in Mfuwe). Izzy, Rob and Derek Shenton all contributed to the warm, friendly service.

The game viewing, meanwhile, is superb: loads of leopard and lions, heaps of hippos and hyenas, as well as huge herds of buffalo and various antelope. What really stood out, though, was the standards of the guides (Patrick was mine at Kaingo, while Mayem gave me an impromptu game drive on the way from the airport), confirming Zambia's reputation for having some of the best in the business. I think I learnt more during my week there than in all my previous safari experiences combined. Also, do go for a walk and don't miss the wonderful hippo hide for an up-close-and-personal experiences.

Highly, highly recommended. I can't wait to go back."

"I spent three nights at Mwamba, following on from three at Kaingo. It was the perfect combination for a week's holiday, as the camps are very different from one another: Mwamba, with just three rooms, sits away from the wide Luangwa river, nestling, literally, in the middle of the bush for the ultimate feeling of remoteness.

The rooms, which are rebuilt each year under the trees, have wonderful skylights which make it feel like you are sleeping under the stars (but still safely indoors when elephants wander by!) and large outside bathrooms with bucket showers (which are not as rustic as they sound). An outside seating area is the the perfect spot for lunch watching any animals wandering by the river bed. The general areas are equally open, attractive and comfortable. Food was generally very good, simpler than that at Kaingo but still extraordinary given the camp's location. As at Kaingo, the service was superb, with a special mention for John, who made me smile every time we spoke.

For drives, Brent and Kennedy were my wonderful guides, while Gideon was an excellent scout. Brent's almost-philosophical approach was thought-provoking as well as hugely informative - I learnt a huge amount from him - while Kennedy conjured up one of the highlights of my trip, a leopard stretched out on a fallen tree that we observed, by ourselves, for over half an hour. As I mentioned in my review of Kaingo, the game viewing is superb: lions were basking in the shade metres from the camp and it was here that I saw large herds of buffalo, eland and Cookson wildebeest, as well as some wonderfully curious young hyenas. Do bring a good pair of binoculars: it will vastly enhance your experience. As with Kaingo, the camp's location far away from the main park gates, means you're unlikely to pass more than one or two other cars on any drive.

So, all in all, a superb experience that I cannot wait to repeat. South Luangwa is the ultimate safari experience, and I can't imagine anyone bettering what I had with Shenton Safaris."

"I had a very short stay at Eight Reedbuck Hotel, arriving late in the evening and departing less than 12 hours later. Conveniently, it is only 25 minutes away from the airport in the "presidential neighbourhood" (according to my taxi driver). My room was large and spacious, with a huge, comfortable bed and sofas and a good television with satellite channels (useful for finding out what's going on in the world after a week in the bush).

The bathroom was also large and had a whirlpool bath (which I did not use), although the shower was a bit disappointing - small, with a curtain and an uncertain shower head. While body wash was provided, there was no shampoo or conditioner, which would have been helpful as I didn't have my own; I also couldn't find a hair dryer, although no doubt I could have asked for one.

The common areas of the hotel are lovely, and although I didn't get a good view of the garden because it was dark, it seemed to have a nice pool as well as an outside seating area with a fireplace. Service was efficient and charming, and I appreciated that they left a continental breakfast in my room the night before my early departure. The room also has a large fridge and coffee and tea making facilities."