Travel reviews by Mr H & Ms E from London
Review Distribution
Total number of trips
7
Countries visited
5
Lodges stayed in
28
Excursions taken
0
My Sep 2022 trip
Zambia between 2 Sep 2022 and 13 Sep 2022
We've been travelling with Expert Africa since about 1997 and so they know our taste and the importance of great guiding. The two Shenton Camps came highly recommended and did not disappoint.
It was lovely to get a text from Expert Africa's founder, Chris McIntyre, as we were in the departure lounge, wishing us a great trip and telling us about his recent visit to Kaingo and Mwamba.
As you can tell from our review, we are two very happy customers!
Suggestions to help us improve our trips or our service:
Thank you and keep up this excellent service."
Arranged By Claire Scott
Latitude 15
"Latitude 15 review"
Kaingo Camp
"Kaingo Camp review"
The thing we liked best about Kaingo (and its sister camp, Mwamba) was the quality of the guiding and the game. We've been lucky enough to go on many safaris and thought the Shenton team was probably the best. We loved the way they shared information, between themselves and with guests, they worked so hard to give you a great experience and took real care to understand your interests. Yoram was our guide here and he was brilliant at tracking and anticipating the game viewing positions and we had some amazing sightings of wild dog, leopards and hyenas feeding, lions mating (endlessly!) and, even better, lions roaring.
A highlight was spending a night in the Elephant Hide Star Bed - up a tree with just a mosquito net between you and the stars. A rosy dawn, followed by groups of elephants crossing the river beneath us - carefully guided by the matriarchs - with the babies carefully sheltered from the many crocodiles.
Another Kaingo speciality was the range of experiences the camp offered - including the chance just to sit in camp if you wanted to and find animals coming to you. As well as the individual viewing decks, there were three hides nearby, the opportunity for short morning walks, and of course the morning and evening drives. As you can tell, we loved it."
Mwamba Bushcamp
"Mwamba Bushcamp review"
The small team, led by Maddie and Paul, made us feel very welcome and the chefs, Franco and Johan, produced high-quality food in the well-organised bush kitchen. The camp also had an open-air bar and library, with eco chandeliers, and meals were taken close to the gully, sometimes accompanied by passing zebra and elephants.
As in the sister camp, Kaingo, the guiding was really superb. There are only ever 4 guests in an open vehicle. Our guide was the knowledgeable and kind Sylvester, who quickly got the measure of us. We saw many leopards and their cubs, lions (mating and roaring), hyenas, a herd of wildebeest, elegant giraffe, and lots of prey being eaten! It was a special treat to see a good few civet, genets and even a rare sable cat on the night drives. It was also great to spend time in the camp on a couple of mornings, going to the waterhole - where a herd of buffalo came down to drink - or just sitting looking down the gully to see who came by next.
We spent one night in the trees in the Numbu Star Bed, with just a mosquito net between us and the full moon. We had dinner by the camp fire before climbing up into bed and then awoke to a bruised dawn sky and a view over the open savannah plain. Then we climbed down from our eerie and lit the fire, before being joined by Paul who brought breakfast and we sat with him watching the bush wake up again. What a privilege!"
Brilliant Botswana
Botswana between 19 Jun 2019 and 30 Jun 2019
It was a great trip."
Arranged By Lucy Copson
Thamalakane River Lodge
"A friendly stopover"
They picked us up from the airport - it's about a 30 minute drive from Maun airport - and the check-in was easy. We were in a Babbler Chalet - a one-room stone chalet with good shower and comfortable bed; and a verandah overlooking the dry riverbed. We didn't see the crocs and hippos but we did see monitor lizards and a fish eagle. We were there in winter, so of course it was cold in the mornings and evenings.
The staff were very friendly and sang together at dinner time. The bar was pleasant and the food was fine. Just be aware that they do not take cash."
Botswana Private Mobile Safari
"Honey Badger Heaven with Andrew"
We were the only two guests. We spent 4 nights in Khwai, where we were near the the river; and then moved to Savute and a very different landscape. Andrew's team of 5 moved ahead and set up the camp. It was a very well-run operation and a lot of work went into creating a seemingly simple and old-style camp. Our meru tent was comfortable, with solar lamps in the evening; and an integrated bucket shower and long-drop at the back. It was attractive to passing wildlife too. There had been very little rain this year and so the elephants were particularly interested in our bucket shower and one looked over the top when we were in it! In Savute, hyenas came at night to drink from the canvas washbasins outside our tent. There was also an open-sided tent with a sofa for lounging in the middle of the day; some interesting old books on Botswana and its history; and, of course, the drinks cabinet.
The food was truly amazing, with menus chosen by Andrew's wife Pippa, and cooked by Alec over an open fire or in a metal box under the ashes. He produced a huge range of dishes, from tasty game stews, to Okavango fish, and delicious puddings, cakes and bread every day. Kene announced the menu each night; Tiny looked after the tents and washed and ironed our clothes (using an old-fashioned coal iron); and LB and Julian made everything run smoothly. It was a friendly, informal and tight team and we learned a lot from talking to them about their lives and plans for the future.
There had been very little rain and so the game was concentrated around the water. In Khwai, we saw many hippos and crocodiles on the river and elephants, zebras and giraffes coming down to drink. A highlight was the pride of lions feasting on a buffalo. There was a wide range of antelopes; vervet monkeys and baboons; and we had a glimpse of a leopard. We came across quite a few other vehicles in Khwai and there were other mobile camp sites nearby but Andrew was very good at finding his own routes and own sightings. You can walk in Khwai and we spent a great morning with Andrew pointing out the small stuff that you can never see from a vehicle - although we did also get close to a herd of zebras.
The drive to Savute was long and took us into very different landscape with rocky hills and dried up lakes, with water pumped into the few water holes. We pitched camp on a ridge on the edge of an escarpment. It was a leafier environment and we were miles from any other travellers. The huge and beautiful dried-out marsh held a very wide range of wildlife. We spent an hour watching the King of the Marsh Pride walking across and then lying in the shade by our vehicle. Lion sightings were generally good here and included a pride of females with 5 young cubs, who were completely at ease with vehicles. We also saw wildebeest, jackals, elephants, giraffes and hyenas. And we should mention the birds. Andrew was an amazing spotter and we saw 63 different species on this trip. As you can tell, we really recommend this trip!
As we were there in winter (end of June), it was really cold in the early mornings and quite cold at night. We had taken lots of thin warm layers and a woolly hat and we were fine with those plus the hot water bottles that were provided in the beds and in the open vehicle on the early drives."
Wild for Zambia
Zambia between 9 Oct 2017 and 19 Oct 2017
Arranged By Claire Scott
Tafika
"Back after 19 years and just as wonderful."
Its natural setting and simple reed huts is underpinned by an amazing infrastructure and attention to detail. Great food and great guiding. We appreciated the introduction of battery fans as it was 104 degrees in the middle of the day in October.
The night drives are a real treat. Saw Leopard and Porcupine as well as many many lions and elephants."
Chikoko Tree Camp
"Great two storey huts, amazing walking."
And saw cook Patson who we first met at Mwaleshi 19 years ago.
Lots of Elephant around, and Leopard kills in the trees. Also Giraffe and Lion."
Big Lagoon Camp
"Simple pleasures"
We had the camp to ourselves for two nights and it was great to have the opportunity to talk to the staff. who produce amazing food and hospitality way out in the bush.
Plenty of animals coming into the waterhole."
Tafika
"Tafika review"
It was an opportunity to learn about the work they do with the local community through the Tafika Fund.
We visited the local village and school and were inspired by the young people we met."
Great return to Tanzania
Tanzania between 6 Jun 2016 and 16 Jun 2016
It was great to be back in Tanzania and we split our time between the Selous and Ruaha. We chose to stay in just two camps and that paid off as we got to know the staff and the areas a bit better. The camps complemented each other well - Sand Rivers is more obviously luxurious while Mwagusi is very comfortable but keeps a welcome sense of the bush and the 'old days'.
We went at the very beginning of the dry season - the up side was there were fewer guests there; the down side was the bush was still very green and dense so our guides had to work a bit harder to find the game - but we saw loads!
Expert Africa, you maintained your usual high standards and everything ran smoothly. Thanks again!
Suggestions to help us improve our trips or our service:
Keep going! Keep specialising in Africa. Keep a real range of camps - the basic and the old-fashioned are an endangered species these days."
Sand Rivers Camp
"Wild life on the river bank"
The staff are all very friendly and professional. The rooms have high thatched roofs and are open sided - so you can hear those hippos and hyenas at night. They do have electricity in them and big bathrooms with indoor and outdoor showers. We were lucky enough to be given a hillside suite which had an outside sitting area and little pool.
The highlight of our trip was the fly-camping - we'd really recommend this. You sleep out under a mosquito net - so the stars are amazing. The bucket shower and long-drop toilet remind you of the old safari days and the team produce wonderful food from the bush oven. The camp fire, lanterns and your ranger with his gun make sure that the animals don't come and inspect you during the night. Thanks to Eric, Edward our guide and all the staff who made the trip so memorable."
Sand Rivers fly-camping
"Sand Rivers fly-camping review"
You drive or walk out from the main camp to a tiny temporary camp site - in our case on the edge of a lake. The team have gone ahead and set up your tent (a mosquito net) and the bucket shower and long-drop toilet (yes, there is safari glamping!). You sit around the camp fire as the light fades, have a great dinner made from the bush oven (make sure you see the kitchen); and then fall asleep looking at the stars.
You can hear the animals around you in the night but the fire, lanterns, and your friendly ranger with his gun mean that you are not likely to have visitors. This is a magical Must Do!"
Mwagusi Safari Camp
"Magical Mwagusi!"
Why do we like it? It's kept its integrity over the years. It feels simple and comfortable (very comfortable) and you really do feel you are in the bush - no swimming pools or spas here! It also has the very best guiding. This all stems from the vision and commitment of the camp's owner, Chris Fox, who has created a very special feel here on the banks of the dry Mwagusi riverbed.
Huge thatched rooms with curved verandas overlooking the river, only solar power, and a bedroom area that zips into a tent at night to keep out curious mosquitos. The team here are fantastic - many of them have been here a long time as there is a real training programme for staff, many of whom are from the local area. The food is great and there are many surprises as the location for dinner changes every night.
The guiding is terrific - the staff really go the distance for you. We saw wild dog, lion, hyena, giraffe, zebra, and loads of elephants including many babies - and this was at the very beginning of the dry season when the game is a bit harder to spot.
Definitely a camp with an individual feel - something to be treasured."
Southern Sun Dar
"Southern Sun Dar review"
The staff were professional and the rooms were comfortable. It's not too far from the airport."
Great Zimbabwe!
Zimbabwe between 7 Oct 2012 and 22 Oct 2012
Everything worked very smoothly in terms of transfers and the camps did not disappoint. We decided not to try and cover too much and spent our time in Hwange, Matopos and Bulawayo which gave us a great mix of experiences. We saw a good range of game, some important historical sites and met a great mix of people. We look forward to going back."
Arranged By Claire Scott
Lokathula Lodge (Not currently featured by Expert Africa)
"Good stopover at Victoria Falls"
The lodges are great for self-caterers - kitchens and plenty of space. If, like us, you are not self-catering you might find it a bit bare. There were lots of mosquitoes when we were there (in October) and many of them were inside the mosquito net, so take your own mosquito coil or Doom spray! The next door Safari Lodge has a lovely restaurant and bar area which looks over the waterhole. There is a good shuttle bus into town. All in all a good place to start your trip to Zimbabwe."
Not currently featured by Expert Africa
Camp Hwange
"Eyeball to eyeball with elephants"
It's described as simple but we found it really comfortable with lovely airy rooms well kitted out. It felt refreshingly different to some of the bigger camps we'd been to. The managers were away when we stayed but Tony Marsh, Washington and Gareth and all the staff did a great job in making everyone feel at home. We were there in the hottest month (October) and so there was plenty of game at our waterhole and we were eyeball to eyeball with elephants as we sat behind the boma made of branches and dead trees and they came to drink.
Our guide Tony, took us walking and on game drives and was a great source of information. The only drawback at Hwange is that at this time of year the only game is around the pans and driving between can take quite a while. We've never seen so many elephants in one place. Other game was more limited although we did see lion at a distance and also sable and roan. Three nights felt just right."
The Hide
"A truly professional camp!"
It's a very comfortable camp but doesn't feel in any way 'over the top'. You can do as much or as little as you want. We had the same guide (Dafi) throughout our stay (we were paired with one other couple) and he was licensed to take us walking as well as driving. We came across buffalo, elephants and kudu while on foot and saw lion who had killed two elephant, wildebeest and giraffes and ostrich from the vehicle. The number of elephants was astounding - we must have seem at least 100 at one waterhole. One of the highlights was an amazing electric storm which chased us back to camp after the evening drive. 24mm of rain fell in about an hour and the power went out - but the kitchen still delivered dinner promptly at 8 o'clock! We were pleased we had chosen to spend 3 nights here."
Amalinda Lodge
"A cave with a view"
The camp staff were great - very kind and efficient - and we were lucky to have Paul Hubbard as our guide during the stay who is a real expert not just on Matopos but on archaeology and the history of the area generally. He took us into the Matopos National Park to look at some amazing cave paintings; to see Rhodes grave; and to visit a rural school and children's home and was a generous and friendly companion. We didn't go on game drives here but the white rhino are nearby.
The camp was a great place just to hang. It has a good library, a lovely natural swimming pool, and an interesting mix of guests. We'd really recommend it."
Bulawayo Club
"Another time, another place"
We rated the overall facilities good rather than excellent but that is not to underestimate the work that the management have done in upgrading them. The rooms are clean and comfortable, the food is fine. The service can be slow but the staff were lovely.
The Club has the longest bar we've seen and is now letting women in every night (at last!). The snooker room was deserted (until we played a very amateurish game there) and the dusty side rooms echoed with history. The clientele, however, reflected modern Zimbabwe and an interesting mix of tourists.
We were accompanied by Paul Hubbard, our guide from Camp Amalinda, and he took us to the Railway Museum which was a fantastic experience, seeing Cecil Rhodes private coach, alongside the Garratt engines. He also took us on a pub crawl and architectural walk around the city centre. The next day we drove out to the Khami Ruins, a World Heritage Site second only to Great Zimbabwe. A great way to finish our trip before flying from out from Bulawayo Airport (quite an experience!) and home via Jo'burg."
4 rivers and a few assorted islands
Namibia and 2 other countries between 26 May 2011 and 8 Jun 2011
Given that we were passing through three countries, and had quite precise pickup times, it would have been helpful to have been told about the time changes. We worked out the ones between countries but were caught out by the fact that the eastern end of the Caprivi Strip is not on Namibian time!
The pick up at Kasane (n Botwswana) was not straightforward. We'd been told we would be picked up by our last lodge, Islands of Siankaba. But they don't pick up outside Zambia. A firm called Bushtracks does all the pick ups (and does not have a board with your name on it). It was quite by chance that we managed to find them. That said, the water crossing (at the crossroads of Zimbabwe/Botwswana/Zambia/Nambiia) was wild!
Suggestions to help us improve our trips or our service:
Another great trip with Expert Africa. So thank you once again!
It would have been good to know about 'Caprivi time' and to have been given the name of the company doing the pick up at Kasane.
Thank you very much!!"
Olive Grove
"Olive Grove review"
A little bit of style over substance in that the two washbasins and shower looked great but didn't function entirely successfully.
Lovely breakfast but the dinner tried a bit too hard. That said, we would definitely stay here again - and it was 100% nicer than any hotel."
Okonjima Bush Camp
"Okonjima Bush Camp review"
We stayed in Bush Camp, which has lovely, comfortable, open rooms, well spread out. The bird food was a nice touch and attracted a flock of great sightings. Our guide Albert was a top man who really went the distance for us. We tracked leopard, cheetah and scrambled up a bushy escarpment on foot to find hyena.
It was really interesting to visit Africat and see its work in action and hear about the increased focus on education."
Hakusembe River Lodge
"Hakusembe Lodge review"
The rooms are pretty simple but everything is there and it works. We were promised the 'best steak in Namibia' and I think we got it! The location on the Kavango River is truly amazing - great sunsets and a chance to look across to Angola, with women washing clothes in the river on that side and working the fish traps next to the lodge here Namibia.
We wished we had been able to stay longer and explore the river and Rundu, which looks a pretty funky frontier town."
Nxamaseri Lodge
"Nxamaseri Lodge review"
The water was high; the papyrus and reeds were thick. At this time of year (May), it was a place for hypnotic boat trips, some tiger fishing and an incredible array of birds. We also did the awesome (and bumpy) day trip to the Tsodilo Hills - a spiritual place with 3000 year old bushmen paintings. We'd highly recommend this.
The lodge itself has been family owned and run for many years and has a unique style and character. However, it has been struggling in recent times and new management has come in with what sound like reasonable plans for re-marketing and updating up it. We hope they keep the same special character and wish them well. The staff are part of the family and our guide, Socks, was excellent!"
Susuwe Island Lodge (Not currently featured by Expert Africa)
"Susuwe Island Lodge review"
You need to know that Susuwe and the whole of this part of the Caprivi Strip is on South African (not Windhoek) time. We kept our pick up waiting for an hour because we weren't aware of this!
The Lodge has wonderful staff. The rooms are comfortable and full of individual details. We were lucky to have the manager, Peter, as our guide. He is from Zimbabwe and has truly deep knowledge and a calmness that is rare and valuable. We saw literally hundreds of elephants and wide; range of antelope and birds. And of course there is the river! The food was very good; the peacefulness of the tree house viewing platform was good and the staff enabled guests to go at their own individual pace."
Not currently featured by Expert Africa
Islands of Siankaba
"Islands of Siankaba review"
The level of comfort might feel out of place in the bush but closer to Livingstone it felt fine and we appreciated the luxurious touches, such as the electric blanket! The staff are very well trained but delightfully warm. This is a water place. The sunset river cruise and the tour of Victoria Falls were great.
We were particularly interested in seeing the next door village, where many of the staff come from, and which has benefitted from the support of the Lodge and the guests. The new pre-school is impressive and it felt as if the village community were co-owners of the project, which made the village walk feel comfortable rather than voyeuristic.
This was a great place to end a trip. To sleep listening to the mighty Zambezi flooding past and to return to the UK with the spray from the Victoria Falls in your hair and clothes (yes, you will get a bit wet) was terrific."
Elephants!
Tanzania between 30 Jun 2008 and 11 Jul 2008
Your recommendation on the order of the camps - starting with Mdonya and working up to Beho Beho - was spot on. Trips to Tanzania (especially if you include Beho Beho) are not cheap, but well worth it. The logistics worked well, with Kearsley and Coastal doing there bit. We've rarely been back to the same camp twice but we did it with Mwagusi - and it remains our favourite of the 3 we visited this time.
We had been a bit worried about the new information about the Health Desks at Dar and the need to show your Yellow Fever certificate. You gave us some helpful info on your own experiences. And - after all that - we were never asked for the certificates! I think it would have been different if we were going to Zanzibar or coming from Kenya.
Many thanks - and look forward to travelling with you again."
Mdonya Old River Camp
"Mdonya Old River review"
Animals (particularly elephants) really DO come into camp. This puts the guests in their proper place. You have to drive a long way to see a big variety of game. The guiding is enthusiastic but there is not the training infrastructure that you find in other camps. We preferred the shorter local drives and spending time in camp itself where things come to you. The tetse flies are a problem here - although thankfully not in the camp itself."
Mwagusi Safari Camp
"Mwagusi Safari Camp review"
Best night time animal noises! And an amazing variety of game on the drives. Guides are very well trained and really work hard for you - thank you Samson! And many of the staff have been with the camp for many years which says a lot for the owner, Chris Fox's, commitment to the local community. We'd go back a third time!"
Beho Beho
"Beho Beho review"
The food is great and the managers are adept at engaging their guests and bringing them together.
The walking is good here, especially out to the First World War battlefield of Beho Beho where Selous was killed. The guiding has a very good reputation, although we were surprised that a number of guides had only completed their training relatively recently.
Vehicles have a single guide who is also the driver - not common practice elsewhere. That said the game is good, particularly lion and elephant. The trip to Lake Tagalala and the Hot Springs makes a great day out."
We learned that there are a few new guides that are currently in the process of being trained – however these have very little guest contact whilst they are at this stage of learning. The guides who actually take guests out on the various safari activities all have a varying wealth of experience.
Currently the team here is headed by Sean Lues, who has been guiding and managing camps since 1991. In 1994 he passed his final (proficiency) examinations and was awarded the 'Guide of the Year' trophy, presented by the Zimbabwe Professional Hunters and Guides Association. Over the last few years he has actually acted as an examiner at these week-long and highly regarded proficiency examinations. We regard the system of licensing pro guides in Zimbabwe to be about the best, and the most detailed, in Africa.
Sacha Toronyi has been guiding since 1997 and is a fully licensed Zimbabwean professional guide.
Sean Matthewson passed his two-year guide training programme in South Africa at the top of his class. Sean now has the highest South African qualification in guiding and has spent the subsequent eight years working as a guide.
Onesmo Jacob moved to Beho Beho in 2005, after working at Oliver’s Camp in Tarangire National Park. He has spent the last four years guiding for Beho Beho.
One of the most recent additions to the guiding team at Beho Beho is Salum Mpapa. He has been at Beho Beho for four years and has been guiding guests for a year, following a six-week training course in Malta.
We're happy to recommend Beho Beho for the generally very high level of their guiding; they have an extraordinary quantity of training and experience amongst their team - and an active programme of training up their less senior guides.
Serena Hotel Dar
"Royal Palm Hotel review"
Fine for an overnight before the early morning flight to London."
The staff were good and helpful. However, we got off to a bad start, having arrived at 4pm and finding our room not ready. We were then shown to a room (No 9) which was pretty dilapidated with verandah doors that didn't open easily, a parasol in tatters and a bathroom (with no closing door) that already had a terrible smell of drains, despite the bleach poured down the shower. This had been commented on in a review by another traveller. When we asked to be moved, the staff kindly showed us two other rooms and we chose the lovely No 20.
By then we were too tired to eat much but what we had was fine.
This was a good place to spend the night before setting off on safari.
About 40 minutes from the airport in a peaceful residential area."