Governors' Mugie House: Our full report

Formerly known as Mutamaiyu House, Governors' Mugie House is an expansive country house lodge.

This is one of only two places to stay in Laikipia's most northwesterly wildlife conservancy – Mugie Conservancy – with views to the southeast across the conservancy and towards distant Mount Kenya. Driving north from Mugie airstrip to the lodge, you see a rather austere, fortress-like series of buildings up on the escarpment, partly shrouded by olive trees. Then the road curls upwards to arrive behind the property and you get your first impression of its commanding position. You walk from the parking area into a grand lounge and reception space which looks south across thousands of square miles of bush.

The interior of the building that houses this main lounge and dining area is expansive and classically stylish, with wrought iron chandeliers hanging from a beamed ceiling, big, comfy sofas, impressive sculptures and cut flowers. The old house’s original, full-height, iron-framed windows and French doors bring in loads of light, and a terrace runs along the full length of the building and down one side, with a beautifully finished, rustic palm tiled roof protecting the outside dining area from the fierce sun. Lunch is usually taken here, and indoors there’s a dining room for the dinner service. The full-size snooker table is a nice touch. There’s also a small gifts shop/display area.

Below the central buildings is the lodge’s main swimming pool and a spa.

The seven guest cottages at Governors’ Mugie (numbered #2 to #8 for some reason) are all spacious, en-suite rooms, with bath tubs and walk-in showers and attractive, wooden, twin-basin washstands with good toiletries. All the cottages are finished and furnished to a very high standard and including writing desks and day beds. You access the cottages from one side or the other of the central area, along well-shaded flagstone paths, through mature gardens, where many species of birds and butterflies are attractive distractions. Governors’ Mugie acts as something of a wildlife oasis in this relatively arid landscape, with its promise of year-round water and shade. The beautifully managed shamba (the lodge’s kitchen farm plot) is another draw for local wildlife, and the top-quality salad crops, vegetables and fruit that they grow here have to be carefully guarded. It’s well worth asking to be given a little tour – which makes Mugie’s meals even more appetising.

Cottage #2, facing out to the east, is considered the honeymoon suite and has a freestanding copper bathtub and an inviting plunge pool on its private terrace, with chairs and recliners.

Closer to the lounge-dining area are cottages #3 and #4. Then cottages #4, #5 and #6 flank the well planted hillside west of the central areas. The cottage bedrooms can all be set up with double or twin beds. All the other amenities you might expect - clothes storage, room safe, writing desk, comfy seating – are included. Cottage #4 has the best views of the wildlife hide at the base of the hill.

Cottage #8, on the far western side of the complex is the family suite, with its own large plunge pool on a private terrace. The cottage consists of a large living room, with a good sized en-suite bedroom off each side (again free-standing copper baths and walk-in showers, just like the honeymoon suite). There’s plenty of privacy here for parents at one end, while children sleep at the other, but the family cottage would also work for a group of friends.

Activities at Governors’ Mugie House include morning and afternoon game drives, as well as night drives with a spotlight. The lions on the conservancy include five collared lionesses (radio collars assist in predator research and monitoring the health of prides) and the lodge has a radio telemetry set allowing them to track their lions with guests across the conservancy (and warn the surrounding communities when lions have moved into their areas). With his gun licence, the lodge manager George van Wyk, Zim pro guide, conducts bush walks and is hoping to locate leopards, of which Mugie has many in the woodland areas. The wildlife hide by the waterhole at the bottom of the lodge’s hill, was completed in 2023, and has direct, secure access from the lodge itself.

Further afield, you can take a canoe out on the conservancy’s dam lake (close to the other camp on the conservancy, Ekorian’s Mugie Camp) or play golf on Kenya’s northernmost course (extra charges for clubs and caddy). At the conservancy headquarters you can be introduced to the “K9” team - the anti-poaching bloodhounds and their keepers, and also near the HQ you’re likely to meet the semi-tame Tala, a reticulated giraffe with a fondness for carrots who looms impossibly tall and close as your vehicle draws alongside her.

Our view

Governors' Mugie House is a top-notch, boutique safari lodge in a remote wildlife conservancy. Although Expert Africa hasn't yet stayed here, our visit in 2023 suggested it could perfectly suit honeymooners, and anyone looking for a luxury safari stay with very comfortable and well-furnished rooms, and outsandingly good meals.

Richard Trillo

Country manager: Kenya

Geographics

Location: Laikipia, Kenya
Ideal length of stay: 3-4 nights
Directions: The closest airstrip for most scheduled flights is Loisaba airstrip, on the neighbouring conservancy of the same name, further to the southeast. It's 35km away and the transfer takes around 1 1/2 to 2 hours. if you fly here with Governors' Aviation, you will land at Mugie's own airstrip, 15 minutes drive away. There's a helipad if required.
Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer

Food & drink

Usual board basis: Full Board & Activities
Food quality: Although nobody from Expert Africa has stayed at Governor's Mugie, we visited in 2023 and had lunch here. The meal was outstandingly good – fresh, well presented and delicious. We started with spinach and ricotta tortellini, followed by grilled tilapia with wasabi mayo, patatas bravas, an excellent salad of butternut and feta, and little tacos of coleslaw. This tapas-style selection was followed by chocolate nut semifreddo and a berry pavlova.
Dining style: Individual Tables
Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining
Further dining info, including room service: Room service is available. Bush breakfasts and picnic lunches can be booked at extra cost. All dietary requirements can be catered for.
Drinks included: Purified water, soft and hot drinks, beers, house wines and standard spirits are all included in the rates.

Children

Attitude towards children: The lodge prefers children to be aged 8 and above, but can make exceptions depending on circumstances.
Property’s age restrictions: None
Special activities & services: None
Equipment: None
Generally recommended for children: Governors' Mugie has a refined and adult atmosphere and we don't think it's ideal for young families.

Communications

Power supply notes: The lodge has a backup generator for cloudy periods. Hair dryers are available in the cottages.
Communications: The Safaricom signal at Governors' Mugie is generally good, and the lodge has Wi-Fi throughout the property.
TV & radio: There are no TVs in the guest areas, but guests are welcome to join staff in the staff canteen for special sporting events.
Water supply: Borehole
Water supply notes: The lodge is supplied from a borehole at Mugie golf course. Drinking water is purified on-site using reverse osmosis. The lodge strives to be a plastic-free environment, and all guests are given refillable aluminium water bottles.

Health & safety

Malarial protection recommended: Yes
Medical care: There's a clinic at the conservancy headquarters. Emergency cases would be evacuated by air to Nanyuki or Nairobi.
Dangerous animals: High Risk
Security measures: The whole property has a high fence surrounding the base of the hill.
Fire safety: There are fire extinguishers scattered across the property.

Activities

4WD Safari
Birdwatching
Cultural excursion
Guided walking safari
Hot air ballooning

Extras

Disabled access: On Request
Laundry facilities: Laundry is included in guests' stays. It is machine-washed, line-dried and ironed.
Money: There are safes in all the cottages.
Accepted payment on location: The lodge accepts all payments by MasterCard or Visa. Tips can also be paid by card.