Gham Dhao Lodge: Our full report

Located on the northern boundary of Botswana's Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR), Gham Dhao Lodge, formerly ...

... Haina Kalahari Lodge, is one of a number of properties in this area. The lodge is set on its own 120km² concession and offers a classic Kalahari experience, with game viewing and interactions with the San Bushmen. Whilst the lodge has all the benefits of being on private land, it is the closest property to the Matswere Gate into the CKGR, allowing guests to experience the reserve as well.

Confusingly Gham Dhao Lodge is also known as Evolve Back, Kalahari and officially marketed as Evolve Back Gham Dhao Lodge. Whatever name you use, the lodge's concession is adjacent to the Deception Valley Lodge reserve, meaning the game, geography and vegetation are the same, although Gham Dhao is closer to the Matswere Gate into the CKGR.

Despite being less well-known than its neighbour, Haina had a good reputation and, based on our visit in June 2017, this was well-founded.

The text below is based on Haina Kalahari Lodge - we hope to have this updated soon to describe the new Gham Dhao Lodge.

The lodge is made up of ten tented rooms spread out through the Kalahari bush, treading a fine line between privacy and accessibility. The tents furthest from the main area are a fair walk (200m or so), especially in the hot sun, but we felt that the feeling of being in the bush was worth it. Guests with limited mobility, and those who simply don't fancy walking, can be transported around the lodge in Haina’s golf buggy .

The tented rooms themselves, all built on raised platforms, are split into ‘luxury’ tents, larger ‘superior’ tents and a family tent.

Each of the six ‘luxury’ tents is built under an unusual stick arc. We liked the look of this design and although it might not offer the most effective protection from the sun, it does give the tents a modern feel while helping them blend into the bush.

Inside, the tents are light and spacious, with a large double bed made up with crisp white linen under a large walk-in mosquito net. Each tent has an individual tea and coffee station, writing desk and hanging space.
The en-suite bathroom area is to the back of the room, with a shower cubicle to one side, a separate toilet to the other and his and hers sinks in the middle. A second door from the shower leads to an additional outdoor shower. Luxurious towels and dressing gowns are provided, along with a range of complimentary toiletries.
Three ‘superior’ tents, built under a thatched canopy, are designed in the same style as the luxury tents, though these are slightly larger, and have the addition of a bath.

The family tent, which sleeps up to four people, consists of two ‘luxury’ tents built next to each other, sharing a communal deck.

Well-marked sandy pathways wind through the bush, linking Haina’s tents to the main area. A large timber and thatch building, which is predominantly open sided, this houses spacious dining and lounge areas, a bar and a curio shop.

To one side of this thatched area is the lodge's pool; to the other an outdoor boma, where meals are sometimes served.

Although we haven't yet stayed here, we understand that activities at Haina Kalahari Lodge focus on game drives and walks with the resident San guides. As elsewhere in the Kalahari, don't expect large quantities of big game here: there isn't enough water to support them. That said, you may be lucky enough to see lion, leopard, cheetah or brown hyena on the fenced concession, which is home to a range of plains game. Haina also offers full-day drives into the GKGR for those wanting to experience the reserve itself.

In contrast, the Bushman walks focus more on the stories, experience and knowledge of the guides than on the game in the area. Expert Africa strongly believes that walking activities in areas with dangerous big game should be led by qualified and armed guides. Despite relatively low densities of the most dangerous species on this reserve, and the amazing bush skills of the Bushmen trackers who normally accompany the walks, we would still take this view here. As such we are delighted that Haina Kalahari Lodge offers an armed escort on request and we advise all travellers to make use of this service.

For the more adventurous the lodge also offers quadbiking. (NB: It's essential that you read the quadbike warning in the Health & Safety section below for our comments on insurance issues regarding this activity.)

As with all the private properties on the northern boundary of the CKGR, Haina is fenced. While this protects the game on the concession, the fence also disrupts the natural migration of game in the area. Game viewing in the CKGR is typically at its peak in the summer, between December and April, when rich grasses attract migratory herds of zebra and wildebeest. At Haina, however, the game densities stay fairly constant within the concession, due to the fence, and as such it is usually easier to see the game in the dry winter months (around July to October), when the grasses have died back and water sources are limited.

Our view

We liked the clean, modern, tented design of Haina Kalahari Lodge on our last visit. The tents looked comfortable and its location should make for a classic Kalahari experience. That said, since then, the lodge has been taken over, name changed to Evolve Back Gham Dhao Lodge and has undergone a complete renovation and upgrade. Although we haven't yet had the opportunity to stay here, so cannot comment on the quality of the guides or the authenticity of the Bushmen experience, from what we understand so far we believe that Gham Dhao Lodge is a good choice for those looking for a taste of the Kalahari. We tend to find that this works best at the beginning or end of a safari in Botswana.

Tom Morris

Botswana expert

Geographics

Location: Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana
Ideal length of stay: 2-3 nights
Directions: Haina Kalahari Lodge is usually accessed by light aircraft, although it could also be added as a part of a privately guided trip.
Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer

Food & drink

Usual board basis: Full Board & Activities
Food quality: We have not had the opportunity to eat at Haina Kalahari Lodge, but the format of meals is as follows:

A continental-style breakfast before the morning activity.

A buffet-style brunch/lunch after your drive, including fruit platters, cold meats and cheeses, a selection of freshly baked bread, and hot dishes on request.

Guests take high tea before the afternoon activity, then canapés are often served at sundowners.

Dinner is a set three-course meal which is served in the camp's boma, weather permitting.
Dining style: Mixture of group dining and individual tables
Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining
Further dining info, including room service: None
Drinks included: Soft drinks, house wine and local spirits are included at the lodge when staying on a full board and activities basis. Fine wines, champagne and imported spirits and liqueurs are not included and are charged as extras. Water from the tap is not suitable for drinking, but free bottled water is provided.

Children

Attitude towards children: Haina Kalahari Lodge accepts children of all ages.
Property’s age restrictions: Guests with younger children may need to book a private vehicle, depending on how busy the lodge is.
Special activities & services: None
Equipment: A family tent sleeps up to four people.
Generally recommended for children: Haina Kalahari Lodge is in the bush and unfenced, so we feel that the lodge would not suit younger children.
Notes: Guests with younger children may need to book private vehicles, depending on how busy the lodge is. Due to the danger of game wandering through camp, children should be supervised at all times.

Communications

Power supply notes: There is a backup generator in case of a power failure.
Communications: Haina Lodge has free WiFi in the main area.
TV & radio: None
Water supply: Borehole
Water supply notes: All the tents have hot and cold running water and flush toilets. The tap water here is treated but still highly saline.

Health & safety

Malarial protection recommended: Yes
Medical care: The nearest doctor is in Maun, a drive of at least four hours. Medical evacuation is available in case of emergencies.

Quad bike warning: Quad-biking available as an activity here. As with any potentially dangerous activity, it's vital that you take responsibility for ensuring that you have adequate travel insurance prior to getting involved. Be aware that some insurance policies cover quad-bike activities only for bikes with lower engine ratings: check such clauses particularly carefully before you get on a bike.
Dangerous animals: High Risk
Security measures: Air horns are provided in the tents for use in an emergency, there are staff nearby to assist.
Fire safety: All the tents have fire extinguishers, and staff are trained in their use.

Activities

4WD Safari
Birdwatching
Cultural excursion
Guided walking safari
Night drive

Extras

Disabled access: On Request
Laundry facilities: A daily laundry service is included in the rate.
Money: There are lockable chests in the tents which serve as safes .
Accepted payment on location: Payments may be made via bank transfer, or with Visa or Mastercard. Haina accepts cash payments in US dollars, Botswana pula, euro and British pounds.