Hippo Safari: Day-by-day

To look out over the Luangwa River from Nkwali’s open-fronted chalets is to feel at one with the bush. It’s a oneness that is enhanced by the mature mahogany, ebony and sausage trees whose shade shelters the little camp.

High ceilings and flagstone floors in the six stone-and-thatch chalets help to keep them cool, too, while en-suite bathrooms with open-air double showers emphasise the connection with the environment – in total privacy, of course.

The theme continues in the open-sided “chitenge”, where comfortable chairs and a small bar merge with a wooden deck over the river. Delicious meals are served here, or in the thatched dining area, close to the camp’s waterhole, while loungers around the small pool offer yet more options for relaxation – or watching the birds.

While it’s the natural world that underpins the camp’s ambience, its location, a relatively short drive from the small airport, makes it exceptionally accessible – even during the “emerald” season when most camps in the South Luangwa are closed.

"Perry is supremely knowledgeable, one of the best guides I have ever experienced"

The Sand MartinsfromOxon

Arrived 11 Sep 2024, 3 nights

Nkwali’s other trump card is a private pontoon across the river into the national park, where you’ll seek out wildlife with expert guides on 4WD game drives and short walking safaris. See our full report on Nkwali

Top-notch guiding, flexibility and personal service, all wrapped up in a “close to nature” setting: this is Tena Tena. In the remote yet game-rich Nsefu Sector of the South Luangwa, just a stone’s throw from the Luangwa River, the six stylish tents of this intimate little camp are spread out within a shady mahogany grove.

To wander along sandy pathways to the camp’s split-level hub is to get a real feel for the environment – with comfortable seating and a large bar an added bonus.

The upper level is a great place to sit and chat, or to enjoy a convivial meal with fellow guests, while sunset from the lower level is a time to be savoured over a relaxed drink – if you’re not out in the bush, that is.

Central to a day at Tena Tena is to explore on a 4x4 game drive, by day or by night, or even on foot, under the expert guidance of some of the Luangwa’s most experienced guides.

"a variety of wildlife; a remote area of the park"

Mr MfromUnited Kingdom

Arrived 24 Aug 2024, 2 nights

Back in camp, whether you’re watching from an armchair on your private veranda, from your king-size bed, or even from the “loo with a view”, the river – or riverbed – is rarely out of sight, a magnet for wildlife, even during the dry season. See our full report on Tena Tena

This laid-back camp, steeped in South Luangwa history, has quality guiding and dining in a beautiful riverside setting. Nsefu was opened in 1951, the first camp in the South Luangwa and the brainchild of the renowned conservationist and guide, Norman Carr. Norman pioneered walking safaris here to benefit conservation and communities long before responsible tourism became a buzzword.

In the intervening years, the camp has preserved its history in its unique and unassuming charm. The bar and lounge have old black-and-white photos of Carr's safari days, and the six small rondavels, unique in the Valley, retain their original characteristics with the addition of small terraces that look out towards the Luangwa River.

Nsefu's dining room was gobbled up as the river changed course, so they now offer “nomadic dining” depending on the season – under the stars, under the shade of trees, or even a private dinner for two on top of a huge dormant termite mound – far more romantic than it sounds!

The camp's location, within the Nsefu Sector, features superb wildlife, and the camp itself provides some fantastic sightings in the dry season, with huge herds of buffalo and elephants meandering across the river. Pukus seem to be ever-present, quietly eating the crimson petals of the camp's mature sausage trees, and birds continually dip into the camp waterhole

"an excellent camp... amazing animal viewings... excellent leopard sightings"

DavidfromDoha

Arrived 22 Sep 2024, 2 nights

Nsefu’s laid-back charm continues to entice guest back time and time again. See our full report on Nsefu

With lush gardens, vibrant flowers and the sounds of the river rushing past, there’s a tropical feel about Waterberry. Yet that river is the Zambezi, flowing downstream towards the majestic Victoria Falls, with cool evenings and plenty of tree-shaded corners to offset the heat of the midday sun.

Among the trees, individual chalets with thatched roofs blend into the setting, some overlooking the river, others a small lake. Each is named after one of the birds that may be spotted on the property, from sunbirds to jacanas.

More hedonistically, you’ll find bathrobes and fluffy bath sheets, superking or twin beds draped with mosquito netting, and sunloungers on your private terrace – where dinner can be served on request. A fan covers the hotter months; electric blankets are on hand should temperatures drop.

Should a tent appeal, head to The Woodland, in its own small enclave at the back of the property, while for families, the privacy of the five-bedroom Riverside Farmhouse, complete with a pool, comes into its own.

There’s a pool for other guests, too, alongside a split-level hub whose dining tables spill out into the gardens and onto a riverside terrace.

"I was pleased to have stayed there"

HarrietfromUSA

Arrived 2 Jul 2024, 2 nights

The service is hospitable, and the activities around the Victoria Falls are a short distance away: Waterberry makes an attractive option for a few days in the vicinity of the Falls. See our full report on Waterberry Zambezi Lodge