Travel reviews by Mr & Mrs D from London

"A very welcoming and well appointed lodge.

Heribert, Maggie and their team went to great lengths to make us feel relaxed and part of the Beho Beho family - rather than paying guests. The amount of hosting and interaction between guides and guests during mealtimes was unprecedented for us and we were very happy to embrace it.

We were drawn to Beho Beho by the offer of walking Safaris, these did not disappoint and were a very good introduction to the genre. Getting closer to the animals, having more time to learn and study behaviours and avoiding the discomfort of sitting in a truck for 3 hours were all major pluses. Another highlight was the boat trip on Lake Tagalala - giving the chance to view Crocodiles and Hippos close up, as well as viewing the plethora of animals that came to the Lake to drink ! This outing also included an amazing breakfast set up on the banks of the lake.

Regular game drives were also a pleasure - although wildlife viewing was not abundant this created a calmer experience and a more natural feel than dashing off to sightings on the basis of a radio call from another truck. In fact we hardly saw another truck at all - a delight ! Each evening outing (drive or walk) ended at a different amazing and atmospheric sun downer location.

The fact that Heribert rotates his team of guides so that nearly every outing was with a different guide was another welcome change from our previous safari experiences. Rotations were also made to hosts and locations for meal times - giving a great variety of experience. The food was plentiful and very good."

"Our trip to Ruaha and Kichaka Zumbua did not have an auspicious start - although this was quickly forgotten once we were settled into the camp.

Our flight up from Beho Beho left in pouring rain and was well over an hour delayed - so we, and our luggage, were a little damp and bedraggled when we arrived at Mesembe airstrip. However we were met by a smiley Kichaka guide who explained it was a 3 hour drive to camp, but we would stop on the way for lunch - but then suggested we would get to camp around 5:30 pm - "game driving" the second half of the journey. For the first 45 mins of the journey were were very uncomfortable and annoyed that our guide (driver!) was totally focused on using his mobile phone whilst driving - making and receiving calls as well as doing a lot of texting. Once his focus returned to us he said we would soon be at this amazing spot for lunch. Unfortunately when we arrived another truck was already there - having had the same idea.

Obviously he had no plan B as there followed a slightly hairy and comical drive along the scrubby river bank looking for a suitable shady alternative. The spot he found was adequate at best ! We had a surprisingly tasty lunch - but it was VERY hot by now and we did not want to spend the next 3-4 hours driving slowly spotting game, feeling very uncomfortable in the back of a truck. Preferring to drive straight to camp to arrive in time to take a regular late afternoon / early evening game drive. After quite a bit of negotiation, and a call back to the camp to get it agreed we were driven, very quickly (!!) to Kichaka Zumbua - arriving just before 4pm - and after a briefing and a quick change we enjoyed a game drive and sundowner in a relaxed fashion.

Talking to other guests this arrival pattern is the norm (including the mobile phone use - which Moli was very unhappy to hear about but dealt with). We think guests should be briefed in advance about the length of the total journey to the Camp from pick up - so they can be prepared to dress accordingly and they are aware they will have a 3-4 hours post lunch / middle of the afternoon game drive. It is likely to work better on cooler days than the one we endured. We don't regret pushing back on this approach - but the guests the day after us enjoyed great viewing of Wild Dog and Lion, which definitely help to salve the discomfort.

Comments on the camp experience to follow !"

"We did not do the 2 day fly camping we had booked.

Moli explained it was far to hot to make this a comfortable experience, and he could offer us 2 nights in Kichaka Zumbua instead - with no change of planned activities. We subsequently discovered he gave us the room he and his family (who were not in camp) usually use. We were not unhappy with this outcome and appreciated his flexibility !"

"Expert Africa recommended Kichaka for its walking safaris - and it did not disappoint - they were fantastic. Moli's knowledge, enthusiasm and experience made every second of every walk an absolute delight.

We learnt so much - not just about the flora and fauna - from human history to the extraordinary life of termites. We cannot recommend this as a way to experience the African bush highly enough. A real and unexpected bonus was Moli's hosting at breakfast and lunch, the anecdotes and knowledge continued to flow - along with much laughter ! The length of the morning walks and the interaction with Moli and other guests at lunch meant there was not as much downtime as we might have expected - not that we were complaining !

They were long days but time flew by (unfortunately !). Afternoon game drives were a little sedate by comparison and partly due the the season as well as the remote location we did not see a huge amount of game. However there were also no other trucks to disturb our tranquillity and experience. Dinner was taken on separate tables - although we did ask to join other guests one evening which was happily accommodated. Dining on the "star terrace" was a real treat - we were lucky with clear skies and amazing star displays. all of the food was very good - with an eclectic mix of different dishes for lunch and dinner. We would have preferred a much larger proportion of vegetables though and on our next visit might just say we are vegetarian !

Ironically given my comments about our journey in, our most productive "game drive" in terms of variety of species seen was our trip back to Mesembe airport - however this was in the cooler morning and in the company of the excellent Moyo so a lovely way to remember our stay in Ruaha."