Travel reviews by Ms A from Calgary

"Tafika was the first camp in an RAS journey of 10 nights. I arrived late, after travelling the day from Johannesburg, and was just in time for dinner. I'm not sure I would do it this way again, as it meant I missed the evening activity, but the road transfer did give me a chance to get to know Bo, who would be my spotter for the next 3 days. Even with a fairly full camp, I wound up having Stephen as my guide all to myself (how lucky am I?), and this is just sometimes how it goes when the camp has groups to accommodate together. (Stephen then even came with me to the first walking camps as well). His sense of humour, and incredible depth of knowledge were wonderful. Actually, the guiding was superior to anything I have experienced to date.

The camp itself is laid out quite nicely. There is very limited wi-fi here, but only in the "naughty corner", not in your rooms. I liked the opportunity to message home to say I'd arrived safely, and my family appreciated that as well. As a solo traveller, I very much enjoy a communal dining experience. So much so, that I would exclude going to a camp if meals were separate. There is something special about meeting fellow travellers from all over the world, and recapping the days sightings and happenings with food and wine. Tafika had different tables set up, each hosted by someone, be that an owner, or a manager, or a guide. They switched things up over the 3 night stay, and I thought that was quite a wonderful way to do it.

The "huts", or "chalets" were lovely, and open. Lots of space. There were definitely bats that came to the room between 5:15am and 5:30am every day. I loved them, and loved watching them fly around in the new light, but if that is something that may bother you, then maybe an open design isn't for you. I found the mosquito nets at night very good. No rips or tears, and the overlap was very deep. I didn't find a single insect inside. Rechargeable fans are new there, and in the October heat, very welcome. Nice and quiet. I was escorted both in the evenings, and to breakfast in the mornings, even though I was the closest to the main area. This might have perhaps been because of the big bull elephant (he had a torn left ear) in musth who was frequenting camp during my stay.

I loved the vehicles for the game drives. No canopy. Very easy for photography. I loved seeing the dogs, on almost every game drive, and the landscapes were incredible. This was my first trip to SLNP, and in fact, to Zambia. I've never seen so many hippos and large crocodiles, and was so happy to soak it all in. The "sighting of my life" happened here lol. (maybe that is a slight exaggeration, but it WAS pretty amazing). A leopard attacked a baboon, the baboon troop came to the rescue. We waited to see the "finish", only to have a male elephant decide he didn't like us blocking "his" road, and a herd of 500+ buffalo come to surround us. 3 of the big 5 in one go. And we had this sighting all to ourselves. Not even a film crew around.

And on that topic...... film crews in the Nsefu Sector. At best: annoying. At their worst: on a power trip. There was one truck, with a young couple who were extremely pleasant. They would invite us to sightings, would smile, wave, and share knowledge. I cannot say the same for the BBC crews. That is all I want to say here, on it. But I sincerely hope that their contracts during the covid period will soon be up, and filming will wrap. I realize that this shouldn't reflect on Tafika Camp itself, but it did affect my experience, and so I've included it here.

Tafika is amazing, and was the perfect "launch pad" for the next 7 nights of walking camps. I found the staff to be warm. The owners fun, and hospitable. The "feel" and genuine welcome, combined with absolutely expert guiding, and a fabulous, game rich area to explore, make it exceptional. It is definitely in my "tops" list, and I will return."

"I came here from Tafika Camp, with my guide, Stephen, and had the camp to myself!! If I were to do it again, I would definitely stay more than one night, as the area deserves to be explored way more. His guiding was exceptional. Stephen's experience, knowledge, and wonderful sense of humour made such a difference to my 5 days with him.

The canoe crossing, and walk to camp were wonderful, and immersive. Seeing lions on foot is something I will never, ever forget. At all times, I felt safe, and looked after. But also, I felt "in the bush for real". This is no light-hearted stroll, and especially in the October heat. Uneven ground, long distances between shaded stops. 44 degree c temps. But SO rewarding! I loved every sweaty moment.

The "hut"/"chalet" itself is very spacious. Ensuite, shower, loo, dressing area all on ground level, with a staircase leading you up to the bed/sleeping area. Beautiful colourful robes were supplied (I wished they were at all the camps), I suspect, because the staircase going up to bed was completely visually open. Again, the mosquito nets were fabulous, with no rips, and with a deep overlap. Again, new re-chargeable fans helped with the October heat. No charging points in the rooms themselves..... you had to charge phones and camera batteries in the main area - and not leave them overnight. Hyenas quite like anything left out.

Food here, is of exceptional quality, even given the remote location. I struggle on safari, and especially if I am the only one in camp, as I don't eat dessert on a regular basis at home, and my gosh, staff go so far out of their way to bake cakes, and make elaborate meals. One feels very spoilt and the choices are amazing.

This camp deserved a stay of more than one night. On return, I will book a 2-night, combined with 3 at the Big Lagoon location. It is a "niche" camp, in that, it may not be for everyone. Sightings are further away, than in a vehicle. You have to work to get close. Have to commit to being up and out early. But certainly, for me, the immersive experience, and expert guiding put it right up there in terms of "perfect for me"."

"I loved Big Lagoon Camp. In the shade of trees, the sleeping temperature was much better than other camps during this October heat wave. The layout of the main area, the layout of the room, and the view over the water with ellies coming by all the time, was spectacular. Again, the mosquito net was fantastic. The new rechargeable fan a plus. No charging in the rooms.....only in the main area during the day. (hyenas tend to like to "investigate" things overnight)

I was still so grateful to have Stephen as my guide. This was our last night together, but I certainly hope to see him again on a return trip. Sometimes, you and your guide just "mesh" well together, and it can add to your experience 10fold, and this was the case here.

A completely immersive walking experience. Seeing lions on foot is amazing. At all times, I felt very safe and looked after. Food is of an exceptional quality, even given the remote location. The camp deserves more than the one night that I had here.......so on return, I will likely book for 2 or 3 nights."

"I love Mwaleshi. If I could go back to only one camp in Zambia, it would be here. Rustic, authentic, yet pampered and well-taken care of. The rooms have beautiful views. You are welcome to sit right in the Mwaleshi river out front, because it is too shallow for crocs. But......there actually are some tiny crocs about, who could get at your toes. (so amazing)

Change of guides here for me to Moffat. And he was as fantastic as Stephen. Our walks were a bit more arduous here. The heat, and terrain were tough. Rehydrating salts were on offer at breaks (and were absolutely necessary). We generally did walking in the morning. But, if we needed to, we could use the vehicle to shorten our afternoon walk, and have a bit of a mix (which we did). It was a very nice combination. Serious walk in the am, and easier time in the afternoon heat.

The rains started while we were here. Not to a major degree......but the plastics were brought out "just in case". The camp was closing the day after we left - for the season. And it was amazing to see all the work that goes into this.

I made special connections with my fellow travellers here, and am grateful for that. Again, safari has a way, especially with communal dining, to facilitate meeting like-minded folks from around the world.

This is......in short...... a very special camp. One I'll be back to, for likely an extended time."

"Alex was my guide here for all 3 nights. He was as experienced and knowledgeable as the previous guides, and I was very happy to be with him. His sense of humour was infectious, and we shared many moments and laughs during our time together.

Walks were a little more genteel here than the previous camps. Not a criticism, just an observation. And by now, I was actually needing a bit of a break with the heat wave. Again, rehydrating salts were on offer at breaks, and most welcome.

We did drives for the evening activity as a rule, and the middle night, had us visiting Mwaleshi camp to see lions that had moved in. That camp was being disassembled, and it was quite interesting to see it readied for the wet season - something I'm sure most guests don't get to witness.

One tiny criticism here.......tse tse flies. They were in abundance. I found, that on walks, movement deterred them. But of course, on afternoon game drives, we were feasted upon. And on afternoon siesta, they didn't allow for a restful time at all. I noted, that at other camps, there were tsetse traps. My one small suggestion, is that Takwela put some traps near camp. I know it sounds like a small deal, but it may have big impact.

Units were spacious, and large, and more luxurious than the previous walking camps. Hot and cold water on demand. Permanent structure. Waterproof thatch roofing.

Fabulous sightings of lions. Nighttime sightings of hyenas. No wild dogs, but one sighting of a leopard. Fabulous mix of experiences, and I will for sure be back."

"This started the RPS portion of my trip, after having spent some time in the north at walking camps. I was pleasantly surprised at the level of service, the food, the cleanliness, and the choice in activities.

RPS has no single supplements, and as such, attracts folks like me. There were 4 of us singles, for 2 nights, and we all got on very well. Many laughs, and very shared interests. I applaud the way RPS deals with activities......they offered a choice each time out. You could walk. You could drive. And they would accommodate each. You were not beholden to whatever the group decided. It was a very refreshing take.

The units were small. Perhaps a bit too small for some. (And perhaps more so if you are a couple). No real writing desk for journalling. A rondovel, with a green lawn out front, and an attached ensuite in the rear. Far too close together for today's traveller, but understand it is an historical attraction. These were built in the 1950's, and I find them quaint, and quirky. And I absolutely loved them. The view out front was not matched this whole trip. And after 10 days of rustic......the mosquito netting cooling system felt......divine!!

Our guide, John, was personable, knowledgeable, and a grand lot of fun. Willie, the host/manager was warm and welcoming. And the food?? Was just top notch. Unmatched at any camp I've been to. Meals were excellent, and wine flowed freely.

The sightings were fabulous......but again, the film crews in the Nsefu Sector were an issue. All 4 of us, experienced, single travellers, were unhappy with the situation. We were heard though, as management engaged us and asked us our opinions daily. Again, as before, I am hopeful that the contracts made during Covid will soon be done, and filming will wrap in the region.

This is a special camp, in a special area of the world. And I'll be back. The next trip will be split into 2, and I feel a sleepout option, or the 5night mobile will compliment this camp so amazingly."

"Nkwali Camp was the last 2 nights in 14. And close to the airport to go home. It had the only pool of the trip, but is located in the central sector, so I was expecting very busy sightings. I was wrong.

The sightings, were largely just us. Me and Obi. Again, somehow, I wound up with a private guide/truck. I applaud the way RPS dealt with the family of 7, and I. We each wound up with a private safari.

Our sightings, were our own. We had to "sing for our supper". We found the vultures, that lead us to the carcass, that lead us to the lions. This is SO rewarding. And after, the debacle of filming crews, I found that the central sector, was very shy of vehicular traffic. (contrary to what I was expecting). It was very refreshing, to again, have sightings to oneself.

A big bull elephant was in camp (well, most of the time lol). So we needed to be escorted. The yellow baboons, decided on the last afternoon, that when we were all distracted by the elephant at the watering hole by the pool, that this was a good time to raid the chalets. Thankfully, I had heard the warnings, and placed my meds in the safe. This still didn't save me from embarrassment. The little jokers, pushed everything off the shelves, went through the first zipper on my backpack (my ipad, and charging cords were pulled out and strewn), they stole a can of Peaceful Sleep, and.............yup. Took a pair of my quick-dry underwear that were hanging to dry. I had an escort to try to find them that afternoon, the can of spray, and my knickers......but no such luck.

Again, having even terrible wi-fi, was welcome by me (and my family). It's nice to be able to tell folks you are okay. But I also love the digital detox in-between. This worked out perfectly.

I loved this camp. I know, you can look at the whole list, and wonder how I can love each camp, but I really think I could spend extended time here. I enjoyed the pontoon ride into the game park each morning. I enjoyed the drums to welcome the day, and to welcome the evening. So special. The staff was amazing. And the location within the busy central sector was situated such that you could avoid traffic. Love, Love, Love"

"Lagoon is amazing.

There were more elephants seen on the first game drive, than on my entire first trip to Botswana.

The camp feels like.......comfortable elegance. Love the indoor and outdoor showers. Communal spaces were welcoming.

Hippos were always out front, and quite often munching on grass next to your tent at night. (Caution light sleepers).

The concession is amazingly beautiful, and was very green with recent rains.

My guide and tracker, Matt and Vincent, were great."

"What an amazing return to Lebala. I love this camp.

Yes, there are a few things that maybe need sprucing up, and the tents are a little less than perfectly private. But you cannot beat this concession for predator sightings. The guide/tracker method of searching for game is rare, and with this size of concession, makes a big difference in your wildlife experience. Food is plentiful. Wine is flowing in the evening along with the stories of the day. I can still hear Wago's laugh (guide), and MP(tracker) saying Im-Pal-a!

The last time I visited, the whole area was quite dry. No need to use the bridges. This time, the "hippo path" out front, was indeed filled, and I was surprised (delighted) to have hippos come by at night. (We encountered 3 on foot going back to our tents at night!!) Many thanks Wago for keeping us safe on the walk back.

The staff at this camp is incredible. MP (we nicknamed MVP) is a fantastic tracker. Everyone from the manager, to the kitchen staff is courteous, and smiling......even in the most trying of times. Speaking of Covid......temps were taken regularly, and sanitizer was every time you entered and exited the truck. Staff are all vaccinated, and every precaution is observed. There were zero worries.

I can't wait to return"

"Oh!! Where do I start?? PomPom is THE most welcoming camp. It is a definite feeling. The staff make you feel like it's been a long time since you've been home.

The tents are much smaller than others in the Kwando portfolio, but they are homey. And secure. And have the most amazing view of the waterhole out front.

My guide (Major) and tracker (Skills) took me to see a Rhino one morning. On a neighbouring concession, with permission. It was beyond what I hoped to ever see in Botswana. He is in need of a girlfriend (a bit of testosterone buildup has him a bit cranky), and hopefully a lady friend will be in his future. I mentioned what an amazing birthday present that was for me......and, well, Major must have put things in drive, as we had an amazing, celebratory evening!! Dancing and singing at Sundowners. And again at dinner, with birthday cake for all. I didn't need any such celebration, as I was travelling solo, but what an amazing, surprising night it was!

I did a walking safari one morning. Wasn't expecting much. But my goodness.....it was FANTASTIC!!

The concession is smaller, but easier to traverse. And it's beautiful. Palm fringed. Green (at this time of year). But......be warned. I expected to be able to do Mokoro and motorboat excursions, and no, November isn't a time for this (I wish I had done a bit more research, as Lagoon would have been the perfect sight to experience both the Mokorro, and the motorboat experience."

"Kwara. A completely different feel to the last camp, but no less loved. Kwara is smart. Classic. Stylish. Classy. Refined. The perfect place to end a safari trip in my opinion. A great compliment to the whole Kwando portfolio.

I had 4 glorious days here. The food is a step up. The wine is a step up. The concession is, again, amazing. My guide, Shime, and tracker SB, were amazing. I couldn't believe some of the sightings. And these sightings were even more exclusive than usual. 2 different wild dog packs. One night, one pack trying to target a zebra foal, and having 30 adult zebras come to the rescue.

Another sighting, lionesses stalking a warthog for a half an hour, only to have one of the young cubs run out and trigger an early breakaway, ruining the hunt. What an exciting experience.

Charles, the manager, is the perfect fit to this camp. His people skills were in full evidence with the emergence of the Omicron variant, and the stress this added to all travellers. My hat is off to him, in helping us all.

Kwara is a must-do in my opinion. The perfect luxurious end to whichever start. I'll be back time and time again."

"Tau Pan is perfect for starting the adventure. It is a lower game-dense area than most, so you have to temper your expectations. We were looking to ease into safari life, while absorbing a 9 hour time difference, and we found the sunsets, the sunrises, the stargazing, the people and the service to be amazingly helpful.

We also found more animals than we were expecting. A lone male lion on our first game drive, and the rest of the Tau Pan pride was located each day as well. Really appreciated our guide/tracking team of PK and Jakes. Jakes stopped at everything we wanted to see. He also automatically placed the vehicle in the right light, and correct angle for a photographer. We found the most insects of our entire trip here (surprisingly), so do not skimp on the repellant.

Because of the dry conditions/age of the flooring, there were many spots for insects/spiders to enter the chalets. Simple mosquito netting might solve this, if they wanted to make a slight improvement. Dinners were wonderful, cheerful evenings with stories and wine flowing. We loved our Bushman walk, and found it to be fun and informative.

The lions roared in camp 2 out of the 3 nights. And the resident lone bull elephant walked behind our chalet these same 2 nights as well. (making quite a bit of noise as he munched on bushes during his trek to the water hole). The last morning, I wanted to take pictures of his tracks, and discovered a leopard print on top of the elephant print. OP (the camp manager) was nearly always present, and when she wasn't, Florence (her 2IC) was. All the staff went out of their way to make sure you wanted for nothing.

It was an amazing start to the adventure."

"What a beautiful, newly finished camp. The rooms were heavenly. The mosquito netting over the ceiling fan gave us our first complete sleep. Having 2 separate pool areas, along with big common areas with views gave you the feeling you were the only ones in camp. Looking out across the grassy field to see elephants every day was magical, even though I was to find out that this area is normally completely under water. The last 2 years of drought have taken their toll.

I have to confess to being disappointed at the amount of game. Perhaps it is that our expectations were so high after chatting with guests that had just come from Kwara at the previous camp, or perhaps it was just a misalignment with our guide. But we found he would just drive around......only stopping at animals if we asked. And even then, he would "come in hot", meaning, he would 90 percent of the time scare them away, unless it was something he considered worthy. (leaving us to photograph the backsides of animals). He did not show the same consideration for angle, and position, and lighting as the other 2 guides as well.

At the time, I figured I would just "go with the flow", and was more forward with requests to stop as the days went. But now home, and after reflection, I wished I had approached the camp manager to request someone else more aligned with our expectations. He was great fun, and we had many laughs. I would actually enjoy spending time with him......but I wouldn't have him for a guide again.

Don't miss the river boat cruise. It was so picturesque, peaceful, and informative. (our guide actually shined here) Management was excellent. Charlie was present, attentive, and professional, and Cecilia was bubbly and helpful. I found the food good and plentiful, and you never had to ask for a top up on your wine glass.

While we were there, the CEO of Kwando was there with many travel agency representatives in advance of a convention on Botswana tourism in Kasane. We had the absolute pleasure of meeting Sally-Anne from Expert Africa, with whom we had exchanged a couple of emails prior to the trip. It 100% confirmed in my mind that we made the right decision in choosing Expert Africa to coordinate the trip, even though we are from Canada. Their knowledge, and experience is unmatched, and everything flowed very smoothly."

"Lebala Camp was amazing. A great mix of terrain, and animals everywhere. Our transfer day had us going out for the evening game drive on what was my birthday. What a present to be able to see the weeks old lion cubs of the Wapoka Pride as they suckled. Upon returning to camp for dinner, they had baked a birthday cake for all for dessert, and sang and danced. What a precious memory for me. And then, upon retiring for the evening, more surprises. Just, wow!

In the following days, we would follow the 19 strong pack of lions. Just extraordinary to watch their interactions. Many "teenagers" and sub-adults with their antics made for great photo opportunities. I must mention that at this camp, we had a private vehicle and guide/tracker. KK and MP were absolutely wonderful, teaching us many things, and allowing us to fully participate in the search/tracking. When I mentioned that I hadn't seen any "nice" elephants yet in my stay (all had been males in musth so far), the following morning, he found us a "parade" of elephants heading to the water. There had to be 40.....all very relaxed around us. And many with young ones. Another favourite moment.

If I had one small criticism, it would be the lack of privacy in the units. Being mesh on all 4 walls, and spaced fairly close together, we found you could hear even whispered conversations in the next tent. Other than that, they were very lovely, with a pleasing layout. It was always warm enough during our stay for the outdoor shower, but I did wonder if it was June or July, would I be happy with that as the only option.

On our final night, the staff surprised us with a private dinner. It was absolutely unexpected, and was so touching how they spoiled me on this milestone trip.

The service, the food, staff, superior guiding, the camp, and the terrain and wildlife made this camp a must for any return trips for me. It put it in a league of its own. And......as if to make it even more special......on our final morning on the way to the airstrip.......we were witness to the lion pride bringing down a cape buffalo and feed. Right in front of us. Remarkable."