Travel reviews by Mr F from Amsterdam

"A very comfortable base after flying in or coming back from the bush. The room is very spacious, Gardenside Deluxe, with an enormous bathroom and a nice terrace with two chairs.

There’s a very lively vibe here, a good mix of tourists, expats and local people who come for drinks or dinner or visit the several small businesses that hold office on the property. Also there’s a lot to see as the walls, nooks and crannies are full of artefacts, historical maps, etc.

The neighborhood is pleasant too, very green. We walked to a nearby shopping centre to check out the local businesses and also to a nice art gallery about 10 minutes away, people on the street are friendly and it all felt safe."

"Anabezi is a well run, very comfortable camp. A bit larger than we normally prefer with 12 rooms, but occupancy wasn’t over 50% during our stay, so it never felt too busy, we even had the guide and vehicle to ourselves for the 4 nights, a very nice bonus.

The tents, or better pavilions, are huge, no bumping into each other for sure. We used the sitting area only for putting or backpacks on and spend most free time on the wonderful outside deck. Our room 1 is positioned at the very west end of the property, a bit of a walk from the main area, but very private. The views over the small channel in front of the room are fantastic, lots of wildlife passing by throughout the day, elephants, antilopes, baboons, hippos, perfect for an armchair safari. We even witnessed crocodiles taking down a waterbuck into the water and consuming it an quite a violent way, all this right in front of our room.

The service in camp isn’t as polished as at other places, but all very sincere and relaxed. The meal portions are huge, especially lunch. This is a platter to share for two with meat, pasta, vegetables, accompanied by a salad and another hot dish such as a quiche or lasagna. Very generous indeed but too much considering the full breakfast that is served after returning from the morning drive at 9:00.

As we’d never stayed inside a National Park before, only at concessions, the volume of vehicles was something we had to get used to at first. The area surrounding the camp is very scenic, hence many vehicles from other camps would drive here as well. All guides have radio contact so any good sighting is reported to allow others the same experience and while being obviously advantageous it leads to busier sightings too. Our guide Lawrence was very conscious of this and carried on a few times when too many vehicles would arrive in order to not overly disturb the animals. But an epic event as a wild dog hunt and kill excites everyone so despite very commendable efforts from Lawrence to temper his colleagues enthusiasm we ended up with 12 vehicles witnessing the dogs consume a warthog from closeby.

Leopard sightings were fantastic the first two days, after that the weather changed into a mini heatwave with animals obviously taking a break from being active.

We concluded our stay with a very scenic canoe trip that was well organized and executed, ensuring that everyone involved was well aware of what to do in the possible scenarios that might come up."

"What a nice little place, we loved the very remote and secluded location, literally the end of the road. As only 2 tents were occupied everything felt very personal making you really connect to the surroundings.

The thatched rooms were replaced by tents last season and this seems to work well. We love canvas and zippers, it really adds to the bush vibe.

Our tent 3 was spacious and well layed out, plenty of storage space, although and extra hook or two to hang a towel or a jacket would be welcome. Two directors seats in front of the tent allowed for wonderful views over the dry Luwi riverbed.

Tents 1 and 2 are well protected from the sun by large trees, however tents 3 and 4 are much more exposed leading to quite high temperatures inside the tent. The fan provides welcome relieve, however we can imagine conditions to be quite uncomfortable later in the season as temperatures rise. Especially our bathroom area was in full sun most of the day, making the toilet a very hot seat. We improvised by rearranging a sideflap of the tent for some shade, possibly a more permanent solution could provide relief for future guests?
Another slight criticism is about the towels and refreshers, they smelled a bit musty as if they weren’t washed at high enough temperature or not fully dried, this comment applies to the other Time+Tide camps we stayed at too.

As there was only one guide available the first 2 nights due to the low occupancy we were restricted to gamedrives those days as the other guest wouldn’t/couldn’t do walking safaris. This was disappointing at first as we expected the gamedrives to be rather limited and had set our minds on walking. But obviously the opportunities for drives have improved a lot, many tracks aside from the establishment limited road network were available, making for varied drives and the other guest was on the “same frequency” as us as to how to experience the bush so these drives turned out to be lovely.

Most important factor in that succes however was our guide Lawrence: what a beacon of knowledge, kindness, a true gentleman too, the best of the best for sure and an example for many. Especially on the walks he would shine, showing us every intricate detail, very educational and entertaining at the same time, we loved to hear how plants and trees are used as local medicine and appreciated Lawrence’s concern that obvious outside, modern influences have left people to abandon these very effective measures."

"We enjoyed the sleep out experience very much, especially as we walked into and out of the location adding a sense of adventure.

The bedding was comfortable, lots of blankets, we never felt cold. After a hearty meal, lots of meat from the bbq for those who like, the stargazing was wonderful as there wasn’t any moonlight.

We were served very graciously by Michael, he sure knows how to make people comfortable.

The bush loo and bucket shower add to the excitement too."

"We had planned 2 nights at Nsolo to break the walking between Luwi and Mchenja camp as a one night stay wouldn’t do justice to experience a place.

But actually this camp turned out to be our favorite of all the places we visited this journey.

Everyone working here is very friendly and genuine, all very lovely people. We had very nice conversations with Kosmos, the attending manager, he knows how to make you comfortable, a very gentle and gracious host.

The chalets are very well layed out, spacious but without any frills, designed to soak up the surroundings. Maybe a mirror over the shelf in the room would be handy, helps putting sunscreen on in an orderly way, without having to walk back into the shower area.

We loved our veranda too, room 1 is very well positioned with great views over the dry riverbed. The dead tree there attracts many birds, at one point we counted 10 different species in a single moment, while elephants were wandering in the distance in search for water.

Guiding here was again superb, Moses has an encyclopedic knowledge about anything you would encounter in the bush, our walks with him were great. We really appreciated that he eventually lead us all the way to Mchenja bushcamp as initially he had some hesitations to walk all the way there.

Walking from camp to camp is such an epic experience, you really get to appreciate the surroundings to the full extend. The unexpected encounter with a sleeping hippo was expertly handled by our ranger Christopher, calm and professional, while Moses lead us away. The hippo eventually went it’s own way and so did we.

All in all we wished we could have stayed longer at Nsolo as we loved the peacefulness of the camp so much. The big game sightings here were limited but that’s not the point of coming here anyway, just as Luwi camp."

"Mchenja bushcamp is in a spectacular location right on the Luangwa river so guaranteed sightings and sounds of hippos. At night they would graze next to our room and the first night one of them left a welcome present at our doorstep…

The rooms are very spacious and comfortable, during the day the canvas parts are rolled up for full views and exposure, we had a very windy day whereby dust and leaves blew into the room. This camp has a bit more frills than Luwi and Nsolo, the bathtub is a nice ornament but who uses it, certainly none of our fellow camp mates.

Somehow Mchenja was missing the vibe we felt in the other camps. Maybe because of the slightly different guest profile that stays here, looking for a bit more frills, maybe because of the more formal service and the way things were managed? With 2 other couples we decided to have our meals at a big table allowing for a more convivial atmosphere, a guide joined us on two dinners leading to very insightful talks.

On our first night after the hot walk from Nsolo in the morning we were “surprised” to a dinner in front of our room instead of in the main area. While this was very well intended the execution lead to a very late meal, finishing at 9.30 pm, well beyond what we wished for. Unfortunately a case of great idea, bad timing, leading to a slightly akward start of our 4 night stay. A talk with the manager the next day did clear the air though.

Due to the extreme dryness wildlife viewing was hard work for our guide, the first 2 days we had good leopard sightings, apart from the abundant elephants and hippos. Adam did his very best and what we saw was up close and personal, he is a master in predicting animal behavior and movement and always positioned the vehicle in an optimal position.

A weather change on day 3 from unseasonably hot to much cooler came with clouds and gusty winds, it appeared as if the animals were sheltering as viewings became quite light thereafter.

The bushwalk the next morning was very productive though, with a dead hippo attracting hyenas that normally stay far away from humans. Being upwind also allowed for a close approach to an elephant family."

"We loved Sarara, this is such a special camp in such a remote location, glad we stayed for 5 nights to really get connected to the place. Very special to be flown in by the founder of Sarara in his private Cessna: while flying lowlevel over the spectacular landscape he introduced us to the area and his philosophy behind starting it all. The staffmembers are all very kind, a bit shy in the beginning (some reviewers interpreted this as formal) but once we knew them a bit better we had great laughs with all of them.

Newly appointed camp managers Emma and Darren create a homely atmosphere and are very approachable. The rooms are spacious and especially the terraces with spectacular views out into the valley, we could sit there for hours just gazing into the distance. We were lucky enough to have spotted a leopard while driving back to camp after sundowners on the first night, otherwise the wildlife is not overwhelming. Lots of giraffes for sure and elephants visting the camps’s waterhole, gerenuks and an interesting hyena family with 4 pups.

But wildlife is not the reason to travel all the way to Sarara. Samburu culture and their way of life in this harsh environment is what it’s about. Our guide James gave us a real insight into his culture, we had lovely conversations about many things and the Samburu view on it. Visting the singing wells and a local settlement were humbling and moving experiences. Also the visit to Reteti Elephant Rescue was very special and worth the bumpy ride. Very touching to see how the community committed themselves to this cause and how everyone places a role in it.

Sarara is not a cheap camp by any means but a large proportion of the rate flows directly back into the community supporting people and wildlife and their coexistence. If your are not looking for glitzy 5 star service and broadband wifi, but want to experience a real connection with people and their land, we highly recommend Sarara Camp."

"Tortilis Camp is a busy operation with an apparent focus on American package tourists, so people moving in and out all the time. After our stay at Sarara Camp this felt a bit overwhelming, however camp managers Candy and Graeme do a great job in maintaining a personal touch to it all. They are very visible and always in for a chat. Also the concept of having the same waiter during the entire stay works really well to maintain that personal touch. Our waiter Eunice was very kind and caring, nice to have a familiar face amongst the ever changing guest population. Our guide John was relatively new, just 4 months in camp, but very kind and knowledgeable; there wasn’t a bird he didn’t know about.
Having access to the Kitirua conservancy is a great advantage here, we had the best elephant interactions in this section, whereas in the national park it was often a remote observation. Some activities felt a bit regimental, like the bush breakfast and the sundowner only on the last night, but I guess this is the only way to streamline the operation.
We stayed in the Private House, located at the same level as the main lodge on the hill, so no descending and climbing to the tent 4 times a day.
The house itself is very spacious with 2 cavernous bedrooms, furniture and decorations maybe a bit bland. The brochure pictures the private house with a manicured lawn where one could have breakfast or drinks served: in reality just a small rim of grass and much more scrubby bushes, the breakfast option was never mentioned.
The neigbouring Family Tent has a much more appealing setting under a mature acacia tree and a beautiful porch, that would be my choice in the future.
The main advantage of the Private House (and Family Tent) is having access to a private use vehicle and guide, making it a much more personal experience. Also having your own pool, shared with the family tent, is a nice bonus. Finally we must mention the excellent quality of the meals, a buffet for breakfast and lunch and a 3 course dinner menu with 2 options for every course. Tortilis Camp is a good place to stay when in Amboseli."

"Arriving at Mara Plains camp felt like coming home after having stayed at Zarafa Camp in Botswana last year. It’s all about elegance, understated luxury, attention to detail, a calm and soothing environment, the Great Plains hallmarks.
Camp manager Stella and her assistants Siimoi and Jefferson are always there to welcome you back from a gamedrive or a chat during the day and no request was too difficult for them.
Tents are very spacious and comfortable, with lots of little details. As the water is pumped from a borehole the piping hot shower water has a distinct smell to it, needing a moment to get used to. Some tents are in a shady location facing the river, others face the plains where you may see an occasional pedestrian or motorcycle pass by: the conservancy land is owned by local people and they travel to/from their villages.
Our guide Kevin has an intimate knowledge of the area as he and his family own part of the conservancy land, the plains East of camp bear his family name.
Because of his excellent spotting skills and animal behavioural knowledge we had 4 leopard sightings, other guests called us the leopard magnets for which all credit goes to Kevin of course!
We gained a detailed understanding of the conservancy and the Masaai Mara ecosystem thanks to Kevin and couldn’t have wished for a better guide. Each and every gamedrive had an often unexpected highlight: waiting an hour in the pouring rain for a leopard to wake up in the evening, about to give up and drive home and still finding it, or witnessing the birth of a buffalo calf, or following a cheetah mother with 3 cubs through the landscape, seeing them swim/jump across a river, climbing a tree and finally mounting a termite hill: all magical moments.
Food is of a very high standard, not about quantity but quality. Wonderful bush breakfasts, at one time they even had the chef drive into the bush with an egg cooking station, maybe a bit over the top!? We could pick our preferred bottle of wine each night for sundowners and dinner, a very good selection of mostly South African wines, maybe a good idea to invest a bit more in staff training as no one had real detailed knowledge of wine it appeared. My personal highlights of the meals were the desserts, surprising combinations of sweet and hearty elements; pastry chef Jöel would come to our table each time to explain his creation with a big smile on his face, a very nice person indeed.
After 5 nights at Mara Plains we were not ready to go home at all as we felt completely rested and in balance.
Not having visited any other camps in the Mara area it is difficult to put Mara Plains camp into perspective but we could hardly imagine a better place to stay."

"Overall a good stay in a stunning location with excellent guiding and food. Our guide Villa was a very kind person with very extensive knowledge.

The concept here feels a bit formulaic though with limited flexibility to change the schedule. When we indicated that we did not want to do the quadbiking (communicated to the camp already long before our arrival by our travel agent) an alternate guide had to be arranged at last minute to accommodate our vehicle companions so that we could do a regular game drive instead.

Also one can question if the latest renovation has changed it into a better camp. The tents are now humongous and feel cavernous with very limited lighting. Although the design is very consistent 1940’s in all the details, a sense of intimacy is definitely missing and with the limited time one actually spends in the tent the space feels wasted.

Another peculiarity was the fact that the mess tent has no public toilets other than those at the main swimming pool, requiring an escorted 5 minute walk after dark; not very convenient during dinner.

Despite these observations overall all camp employees did their very best to accommodate every guests’s needs and the service level was very high."

"A hidden gem in a very impressive environment. Honest and kind people making us feel at home. Good guiding and food.

Not the most impressive in terms of wildlife sightings but a great sense of disconnection in such a remote part of Botswana, the Kalahari is truly overwhelming. Lucky though to see the rare brown hyena on two occasions and the day trip to Deception Valley gave a real sense of the vastness of the area.

The family style dinners with the guide and camp manager felt really intimate, a vast contrast with our previous camp (Jack’s)."

"Overall the most satisfying camp of our trip. Great tents, excellent food, very knowledgeable guides and good wildlife sightings. A spectacular arrival and departure by helicopter to the otherwise inaccessible Omdop airstrip as the Vumbura airstrip was closed due to flooding.

Our guide Isaac is a true gentleman, kind and caring, with very extensive knowledge, using in vehicle guidebooks to illustrate certain wildlife sightings, always positioning the vehicle for the best photography light. His trainee KG is lucky to have him as a mentor. The highlight wasn’t the numbers of wildlife but the upclose encounters: we followed a leopard for 1,5 hours and a lion for over an 1 hour, gaining a real insight in their behavior instead of just a snapshot photo moment.

The water activities, mekoro and boat trip, were a welcome diversion from the gamedrives. Camp managers Anastasia and Teddy were always there to send us off or welcome us back and always in for a good conversation at the campfire, we felt taken care of. A minor detail: apparently the forms we filled out at home and were sent by email did not come through as we had to redo everything on arrival."

"What an amazing camp. The wildlife sightings were slightly disappointing as the grasses were still very tall as a result of abundant summer rainfall. After 3 rather fruitless gamedrives a good talk with the guide and camp manager resulted in a different approach more focussing on a relaxing stay and taking pressure of the guide. Sure enough the ensuing walking safari, expected to be an just an educational walk, resulted in a classic sighting scenario: baboons calling, impalas fleeing, giraffes running followed by three lionesses scouting the area: priceless.

Zarafa has a real homey feel to it, small scale, ultra comfortable, excellent service. Camp managers Alexandra and Ron made us feel like staying at their private residence, more like B&B owners than managers. Always in for a chat, always there to see us off and welcome us back. The strong point of Zarafa is the ability to totally personalize your stay, hang out with fellow guests or do everything in your own space. We could pick our favorite wines from the extensive cellar and Ron even organized a winetasting for us.

Their commitment to guests was truly above and beyond. We were very sad to leave Zarafa and found it the perfect end to a remarkable journey through Botswana."

"Wonderful stay in the Superior Unit: spacious, very private, felt like our own desert palace, at quite a distance from the main lodge however.

We choose the all in package which included all meals and drinks and two private excursions: a sundowner and a day tour to Sossusvlei.

Our guide Simon did an excellent job on both occasions and shared a wealth of knowledge about life in the dessert, showing us little details about plants and animals that really make you understand how special this area is."

"What a special place and spectacular setting. The silence of the desert is overwhelming. The room makes you really connect with the surroundings, we left some of the canvas walls open during the night to catch the fresh breeze. It's not about top luxury here, to some the rooms may feel a bit too rustic for that, but it's all about being part of a landscape.

We were a bit spoiled by the excellent guiding at Desert Homestead Outpost where we already learnt a lot about desert life, so the excursions at Wolwedans did not add so much in terms of new information. But we still enjoyed driving through the breathtaking landscape and the kindness and hospitality of our guide Jason.

The communal dining table works well, we had wonderful conversations with fellow guests while enjoying great service and good food. There was always an option for a private table however.

We can easily imagine ourselves going back to Wolwedans in the future, just doing nothing, soaking up the landscape, contemplating, like a retreat."

"Very well run hotel, highly professional staff. We forgot some things in the safe at checkout and this was handled very well: a phone call within an hour, everything taken care of smoothly.

The breakfast was very good, the room clean and comfortable. After spending a week in the Namib Desert it all felt a bit too smooth, but that is very much to the credit of the hotel."