Travel reviews by Dr K & Dr B from Ontario
Review Distribution
Total number of trips
1
Countries visited
1
Lodges stayed in
7
Excursions taken
0
My May 2016 trip
Namibia between 26 May 2016 and 13 Jun 2016
The scenery and wildlife in Namibia were exceptional and we would love to return again and again and again. If we did return, however, there are some aspects of the trip that would merit closer attention.
For example, the transitions between camps were sometimes problematic. As mentioned in my review of Scenic Air, the fact that they do not inform passengers of their flight times more than a day in advance makes planning arrival times very difficult. In order to catch our flight to Sossusvlei, which we expected would be in the early morning, we arrived in Windhoek the previous day and overnighted at the Olive Grove. Check out time was 10 am yet we weren't picked up until 12:30 so since late check out had not been arranged, we sat in the reception area waiting for two and a half hours (after already having spent the previous afternoon in transit as well as killing time all morning waiting for our pick up).
When I emailed Tracey, she explained that no other scheduled flights serviced airports close to Sossusvlei Desert Lodge but what frustrated us was not so much the wait as not having a choice about the wait. If Tracey had mentioned during our trip deliberations that we had a choice of a regularly scheduled flight to an airport 30 or 60 minutes drive away from the Lodge versus Scenic Air's unpredictable scheduling to the Lodge's airstrip, we at least would have been prepared for the wait. Furthermore, once we got to Sossusvlei, we discovered a fairly major airport within about 30 minutes of the lodge and another within about 60 minutes of the Lodge, both of which offered regularly scheduled morning flights. Our group came to the clear consensus that we would have preferred a flight to one of these airstrips as that would have saved us at least a half day of waiting.
Our return connection between Sossusvlei and Windhoek and then onward from Windhoek to Hoanib also seemed to be less efficient than it could have been. During trip deliberations, Tracy told us that the only way to get directly between Sossusvlei and Hoanib was via expensive charter flight so we elected to spend a night in Windhoek. But, while waiting on the tarmac at Doro Nowas, we encountered a couple who had flown in from Sossusvlei and were about to board the Wilderness Safari flight to Hoanib. I understand that these people did not fly from Sossusvlei Desert Lodge airstrip but it just seems that a little creativity - and perhaps an hour long drive from the Lodge to a different air strip - could have saved us another day in transit.
We also encountered more problems with our transfers than should have been the case; when we arrived at Eros from Sossusvlei, no one was there to pick us up. Our pilot had to call Wilderness Safaris, who then had to call a subcontractor/cab to come get us. When we arrived at Eros from Okonjima, Barnabus (from Wilderness Safaris), gave us cards that indicated we'd be picked up from the Olive Grove the next morning at 5:30 am. When we told him that we had to catch a flight leaving Windhoek International Airport that afternoon at 3, he called the office and arranged for us to be picked up at noon. When no car had arrived by 12:15, we had an Olive Grove staff member call Wilderness on our behalf and found out that they didn't plan to pick us up until the following day at noon!
Bruce and I were also frustrated that our Expert Africa package did not arrive prior to our departure. Tracy explained the late mailing by saying that she didn't realize we planned to travel within South Africa before arriving in Namibia but in our trip planning deliberations, I did tell her of our plans. Even Peter only received his package a day before he departed Australia and complained that it would have been nice to receive the package at least a bit in advance in order to have an opportunity to read and review the materials.
Another frustration concerned luggage restrictions. We are seasoned Africa travellers so well aware of the luggage limits required when travelling by small aircraft. However, Tracy insisted that even more strict limits applied to Namibia and our luggage must not exceed 10 X 12 X 24 so we ditched our much used Africa travel bags and bought smaller ones. Yet, when we arrived in Namibia, we found that everyone - including our travel companions - exceeded the 10 X 12 X 24 limits at least somewhat. Our old, reliable, Africa travel bags would have been perfectly fine - and would have made our packing much easier and our travel much more comfortable.
Another issue that arose during trip deliberations that turned out to be a false issue concerned our weight. Even though we provided Tracy with our weights before we made the final payment on our trip, we were later told that because we as a party exceeded the weight limits normally allowed for two men and one woman, we would need to either limit our total luggage weight to 15 kg per person or pay an extra $1,650 US. Needless to say, we were shocked, both because we are not particularly large people and because this felt like a bit of a scam having come up after having paid our full fare.
After some back and forth, Tracy managed to get the company to "acquiesce" to allowing us 20 kgs luggage per person which at the time seemed like a win. But, when we boarded each of the Scenic Air flights, we discovered that the "fourth" seat they had wanted us to pay $1,650 US for was never even used as a seat. For each and every flight we were on, it was folded down and part of the luggage compartment. Never was there a fourth passenger and never was our luggage even weighed!
I understand this issue has everything to do with safety; however, we can't be the only Expert Africa clients affected and I don't understand why this isn't dealt with before a quote is provided. Alternately, Tracy should have negotiated the outcome on her own before asking us to pay an extra $1,650. Only if she were not able to achieve the ultimate outcome (which was essentially no change) should she have gotten us involved and stressed out! In light of all the issues surrounding luggage size and weight, we packed less than we would have otherwise and found ourselves less comfortable throughout our travels. I sighed several times wishing I had a warmer sweater or a nicer outfit to wear to dinner. Small things, I know, but they add to the comfort and enjoyment of a trip."
Feedback response
We were delighted to read that overall these travellers had a super time in Namibia and enjoyed the majority of camps that they stayed at.
We were however sorry to hear that they felt that other aspects of their trip, mainly with respects to the various transfer routes, and restrictions to do with these light-aircraft flights, were not as they would have liked them to be.
It was a shame that these travellers had to wait around at the Olive Grove guesthouse for their transfer. As they have rightly said the schedule for many light aircraft flights in Namibia are only set the day before the flight. As such, travellers are informed the night before of their departure time the next day. There is always the option to head into town to explore and then return to the guesthouse in time for the transfer to the airport.
We are sorry that we did not present these travellers with all the alternative choices for flying from Windhoek to the Sossusvlei area. Sossusvlei Desert Lodge is located a fair distance from the main airstrip in the Sossusvlei area (called Guluk), hence the lodge have their own airstrip for use by those staying there. So although there are scheduled flights to Guluk, as a matter of course we recommend the light aircraft flight directly to the lodges’ own airstrip to save guests the 1 – 1½ hours transfer (between Guluk and the lodge) in an open-sided vehicle along rather dusty gravel roads.
When these travellers made their booking with us there were only two alternatives for flying directly to Sossusvlei Desert Lodge; an expensive private charter flight (where we could guarantee a confirmed departure time) or the scheduled Wilderness Air flight, which departed Windhoek International Airport at 14:10. Hence we used Scenic Air for this flight as they usually depart from Eros (the Windhoek Town airport) as opposed to having to travel 40 minutes back to the international airport (as for the Wilderness Air flight) and would also usually depart earlier than the Wilderness Air flight. Only shortly before these travellers trip departure date (April) did Wilderness Safaris introduce an earlier flight at 10:30.
As most people prefer not to spend 1 – 1 ½ hours on a road transfer when there is a direct flight to the lodges’ own airstrip we chose this option for them but we will ensure that in future we present all the alternatives to our travellers.
The very best direct flight option from Sossusvlei Desert Lodge itself to Hoanib is a private charter and we provided a quote for this at the same time as presenting the option with a stop over in Windhoek. This came in at an additional cost of about £100 per person, but the option via Windhoek was chosen by the travellers. We are very sorry that we did not go into details about the alternative option to fly from Guluk (which would have included the road transfer, as mentioned, from the lodge to the airstrip), and then a flight from there to Swakopmund, then on to Doro Nawas and then finally to Hoanib, This route via Guluk worked out more expensive than the private charter option and given that the travellers did not want that, we didn’t think to recommend this longer and more costly option too.
We were concerned and sorry to hear about the timing problems with the transfers in Windhoek. These had been booked correctly and confirmed by us – but our partners in Namibia who were at fault, would like to extend their sincere apologies for the errors made regarding these.
We are very sorry that these travellers did not receive their final travel pack before they left home. It was posted out just over a month prior to the start date of our arrangements in Africa. About a week later we emailed to see if they had arrived and were reminded that they actually departed Canada slightly earlier than this. We were very sorry to have overlooked this, and immediately emailed all essential travel documents over to them so that they had all they needed for travel 10 days prior to their departure.
We do completely understand how frustrating this must have been for these travellers to have such limitations on their luggage size. We had very early email exchanges about this where the protocol was explained and that all we can do is pass on the information that the light aircraft providers stipulate to us.
We are also sorry that the personal weight limits and subsequent baggage limits caused issues for these travellers. We do mention in our quote letters that those weighing over a certain amount may have to pay for an ‘extra seat’ in the light aircraft flights, but perhaps should have followed up more specifically on this.
We always like to keep our travellers fully informed and rather than wait longer to let them know they may have to pay extra, we preferred to let them know immediately when we were told by the light aircraft company. In hindsight perhaps we should have waited for the outcome of our negotiations before contacting them. However under the circumstance we were delighted that we were able to assist in getting the sum waived at the expense of a few kilos in luggage weight. This is very rare and something the light aircraft providers do not usually agree to.
Finally we were sorry that a couple of lodges did not suit these travellers and that they were unhappy about several aspects of their stays. The feedback has been forwarded to the lodges.
Arranged By Tracy Lederer
Olive Grove
"Adequate"
Sossusvlei Desert Lodge
"Jewel in the Desert!"
I mentioned that the food was mostly excellent: On one evening, one of the meal choices - there were always two options - wasn't very good. Every other meal we had was fresh, delicious, and of superb quality. But, that one meal was rather poor.
Sossusvlei Desert Lodge usually has a resident astronomer and we found his knowledge and enthusiasm infectious. There are very few places in the world where you can enjoy such excellent conditions for star gazing and having David as our teacher and guide made the experience even more amazing. An unexpected treat!
The manager, Paolo, mentioned that Sossusvlei Desert Lodge is up for refurbishing within the next year or so. That came as quite a surprise because the accommodations and public spaces are in very good condition. Not absolutely brand new but certainly not tired in any way whatsoever. That just goes to show you the high standards maintained by &Beyond.
We highly recommend that if you go to Namibia, you must go to Sossusvlei Desert Lodge!!"
Olive Grove
"See previous review"
Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp
"The highlight of our trip!"
The camp staff are all excellent. Beauty exemplified finesse and professionalism as she masterfully handled a mix up that was the fault of our travel agent. What could have been a very inconvenient error turned out to be little more than a momentary ripple for us - even though it meant some complex juggling behind the scenes. Another potential problem - the fact that I was recovering from a recent quad bike accident and so couldn't walk far - was also very tactfully handled by Beauty when she noticed my limp and moved me to the closest tent as soon as it was available. By the way, when I say 'tent,' I really mean 'very luxurious tented chalet.'
Where Damaraland Camp made me feel like a constant nuisance for having a food allergy, Beauty mentioned to me upon my arrival that the kitchen was aware of my food allergy and would ensure my food was all safe. As should be the case, my food safety needs were completely and inconspicuously met and I was never made to feel like I was being a nuisance.
Clement, one of the camp managers, was entertaining. His enthusiastic personality might be a bit overwhelming at first but we came to really appreciate his passion for the wilderness and wildlife photography as well as his very clear devotion to ensuring Hoanib delivers on every front.
Another thing we really appreciated at Hoanib was their ability to ensure guests mingled and met one another but also had time alone with their travel companions. Before dinner, guests mingled freely around the campfire or bar but during meals, each party had a private table. We were close enough to other groups to engage in lively conversation (or even join tables) if we so desired but far enough apart to enjoy a sense of privacy and luxurious dining. A perfect balance.
The things I have mentioned so far are really details. The true stars of the Hoanib experience are the amazing scenery and the wildlife sightings. Both surpassed our very high expectations. The details, however, are what elevated our stay at Hoanib from amazing to truly exceptional."
Damaraland Camp
"A waste of vacation time and money."
Disappointed that I missed seeing Twyfelfontein, I asked why they didn't combine the outings in order to save almost 6 hours of driving time and after many excuses, the explanation boiled down to the fact that if they combined the outings, there wouldn't be anything else for guests to do on the second day. The only other activities offered are walks and visits to a local village, which is really nothing more than one man's farm. Interesting - for a few minutes - but not a village.
The scenery is beautiful, but that can be viewed from other camps such as Doro Nawas, which is much closer both to Twyfelfontein and to where the elephants usually are. Also, staying at Doro Nawas saves you both an extra flight from Doro Nawas to the Damaraland Camp airstrip and a very bumpy drive from the Damaraland Camp airstrip to their camp.
The food at this camp was awful. Two guests got food poisoning while we were there and the staff seemed to have great difficulty coping with my food allergy. I constantly had to ask the servers if my food was free of MSG and they pretty much had to check with Vanessa, the food and beverage manager, each time. I often had to eat differently than my companions because much of the food served at this camp is cooked using packaged seasonings and sauces. In most other camps, my allergy was a non-issue as their food was prepared fresh.
Another problem I had at this camp was the outrageously contrived "African singing" and menu presentation. Other camps often present their menu in both English and the local language but they manage to do it without making me cringe. Here, the servers seemed to be reading from a script and combined their menu description with sound effects and a sing-song "Yummy, yummy!" Even the guides seemed embarrassed.
The camp itself is adequately comfortable, but certainly not luxurious. According to Wilderness Safaris, this camp is in the same category as Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp (a Classic Camp) but the differences are extreme. Hoanib is what it advertises itself to be - a luxury camp in beautifully remote wilderness. Damaraland Camp is absolutely not "luxury in the desert." It is at best a two star establishment and, in my opinion, a waste of vacation time and money. There are many, many other places that offer everything Damaraland Camp offers as well as other wildlife, other activities, and much better accommodations, food, and service.
The camp staff were enthusiastic and welcoming and several - including Desert Rose and Corbelia - deserve special recognition for their friendliness and extra efforts, especially during the day I was confined to bed. Overall, however, the staff - and especially the management staff - need more training and finesse for this camp to be comparable to its competitors/alternatives. In fact, given how poorly this camp compares to other Wildness properties, our group came to the conclusion that this might be a training ground for Wilderness management staff. Given the many options, I can't think of any reason whatsoever to visit this camp."
Ongava Tented Camp
"Fantastic wildlife experience!"
The Tented Camp has a waterhole just beyond the dining tent/deck which offers an almost unending stream of wildlife just a few feet from where you're sitting. The tents are not five-star villas but they are roomy and comfortable, more than adequate for a tented camp. They are, in my opinion, the perfect balance of rustic and luxury.
Both the food and the service at Ongava were very good. The managers were present, personable, and attentive. The wait staff were always on the ball - especially Sydney, whose eagle eye and attention to my food allergy kept me safe.
Some safari camps provide separate, private dining tables and some prefer the communal style of dining. By virtue of guests' different schedules and Ongava's flexibility with meal times, they struck a nice balance between social mingling and each party's privacy. We met other guests and enjoyed our time with them but never felt forced to interact.
Ongava also offers a lodge but we stopped there for tea one afternoon and concluded that we much prefer the smaller, more intimate feel of the Tented Camp. Whether you stay at the Lodge or the Tented Camp, both offer the ability to do safari drives in Etosha or within the private reserve and are, therefore, excellent options while in this area."
Okonjima Bush Camp
"Glad we went but wouldn't go again."
First, the camp: The Bush Camp accommodations are amazing. The villas are large, well appointed, and quite luxurious. Each villa has a sala attached and from there you can lounge, enjoy the view, and feed the birds. Heavenly! So, no complaints whatsoever about the accommodations. But, when it came to food and service, there was a disconnect. Where the accommodations are five star, the food and service struggled to get past 2 stars.
This was another place that struggled with my food allergy but beyond that, the food was simply not good. Also, no meal options were provided. Like it or not, that was what was for lunch or dinner. Take it or leave it. Afternoon tea was offered but so little was put out that if you didn't arrive early, you might well go hungry. Unless, of course, you had a food allergy and an assertive personality and were willing to find a manager and specifically ask for something to eat. Kudos there to Angel, who seemed to be the afternoon manager. He was professional, accommodating, and seemed to have an understanding of service standards in the hospitality industry. The person who appeared to be the morning manager, however, (I think his name was Ronald) was withdrawn, surly, and prone to mistakes. Overall, the staffing levels were low, which made it hard for any of the staff members to do a good job. Also, the staff members' skill and training levels seemed to vary greatly with some staff members being very personable and competent while others struggled.
Now for the wildlife experience: We went to Okonjima specifically to see cheetahs and leopards and, in that regard, we were not disappointed, even though all our sightings - with the exception of one leopard cub - were of collared animals. What I wasn't really prepared for was how much our game drives felt like excursions into a big, fenced zoo. We have an attraction in the Toronto area called African Lion Safari, where guests can drive through a large park in their own cars and see the animals. As our Okonjima guide swung his tracking device around, and as we pulled up next to collared cheetahs and leopards (as well as a sleeping hyena and two wild dogs) that seemed completely oblivious to our presence, I kept thinking this was not a typical wildlife safari and these were not typical wild animals.
I felt even more uneasy when I learned from our guide that a fairly large number of cheetahs (I don't remember the exact number) have been killed by the resident leopards because the area is so heavily covered by brush and conditions are far better for leopards to hunt than for cheetahs. Apparently there are only 6 collared cheetahs left in the park while something like 14 have been kept in holding cages for some time now (at least 2 years) waiting for more brush to be cleared so they can be released. Another group of cheetahs are in the holding areas but will never be released for various reasons such as not being able to hunt for themselves. I understand there are also three or four leopards and three lions in holding areas and none of these animals will ever be released.
Several things the guide said made our group wonder how much professional guidance Africat has had over the years. For example, we heard of several "mistakes" made over the years that cost the lives of many cheetahs and how Africat has struggled with the cats' diets because of the high cost of feeding them (which apparently came as a surprise after having rescued a few cats). We also heard that Africat has consulted a "lion whisperer" but we didn't hear of any consultations with wildlife biologists or other scientists. It could be that Africat is guided by a board of highly training and variously qualified professionals (biologists, veterinarians, and others knowledgeable about conservation) but we didn't hear about this type of guidance or oversight. Also, please keep in mind that my criticisms must be taken with a grain of salt because not only do I not know the details of Africat's involvement with scientists and conservation agencies, I am well aware that even the most professionally guided and best run conservation efforts make mistakes, encounter conundrums and cannot "save" each and every animal. I'm simply expressing some of the concerns our group voiced.
We also heard that Okonjima has recently brought several different types of animals into the park including ostriches, horses, and rhinos. If these efforts are aimed at ensuring a healthy and balanced environment for the cheetahs, leopards and other current occupants of the park, then I applaud; however, if these efforts are aimed at diversifying the wildlife in order to broaden the park's appeal, I hope Okonjima anticipates the consequences for the animals currently under their care. For example, our guide stated that they are considering bringing lions into the park, a move that is certain to have negative repercussions for the cheetah population, especially with regard to cub mortality.
Although I am conflicted by some aspects of Okonjima's operation and approach, I applaud their current focus on education. They seem to have come to the awareness that in addition to saving individual animals threatened by human-animal conflicts, a focus on education may also save species.
In summary, this is a camp to visit if you simply want to get close to cheetahs, and especially leopards. If you are interested in an authentic safari experience, Okonjima is not for you."
On the second night, we stayed in a room on the main floor, next to the reception area. We weren't bothered by noise from the reception area as dinner is over early and we arose before breakfast started. However, we were awakened at 4:00 am by bright lights shining directly into our bedroom window from the parking lot. Also, the only shower was in the tub, which was slanted so a bit dangerous to stand in. The water sprayed onto the bathroom floor and when we used the bathmat to dry up the floor we were disgusted to see the bathmat turn a dirty brown. Ugh...
On the upside, the staff were all very friendly and helpful. The meals were good and the pick up and drop off area - which is a gated area right outside reception - was very convenient."