Travel reviews by Mr & Mrs C from Berwick

"We stayed just one night, arriving mid afternoon. The room and bathroom were spacious, clean and quiet and the staff friendly and helpful.

We did not eat in the restaurant but had a bar snack on the outside terrace from a good choice menu. As we were leaving early by road to our first camp we asked for a picnic breakfast which, apart from the fruit salad, was inedible."

"The highlight here is undoubtedly being right by the Kafue river and enjoying the wildlife (especially birds) that it attracts. You cross by boat to get in and out of camp, there are longer boat trips and (memorably) we had a wonderful surprise brunch on one of the islands.

The scenery is spectacular with huge granite boulders being a challenge to navigate. The dining area is right by the water with bee eaters to accompany daylight meals. All the guest accommodation faces the river and rooms are well appointed with a covered verandah for relaxing.
All the owners are very hands on and very, very personable. The food was exceptional and the staff excellent.

It was a last-minute decision to bolt on two nights here at the beginning of our trip so just one full day for game drives so difficult to give an informed opinion on the variety of wildlife. However there were lots of antelopes including puku, which was a first for us.

Guide Israel was informative and entertaining."

"The whole of Musekese camp overlooks a lagoon off the Kafue river. At the end of the dry season when we visited there were just a few puddles though there was plenty of wildlife action particularly birds, antelopes and elephants. Unlike many arrivals we drove there from our previous camp KaingU with quite a substantial part of the journey in the national park. Again we transfer by boat across the river to get to the camp. The Kafue here is very wide and completely different in nature to further south, where it is much more rocky.

The room is large and a deck has a great outlook onto the lagoon area. Bushbuck patrol the grounds. Food was very good with dinner communal but lunch usually at separate tables. Owner Tyrone hosted a couple of meals and talked about Musekese's conservation efforts and the founding of an anti-poaching unit.

The game viewing here was more sparse than later in our trip at South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi but the big advantage at Musekese is that you don't see any vehicles from other camps.

Over our five-night stay our guide is James (the first!) who was excellent: extremely knowledgeable and didn't always have to be asked before supplying information. We see large families of elephants and a briefly a small pack of wild dogs. Lots of lions including a lioness hunting one of the many newly-born impala and two brothers, one of which had been rescued from a snare.

A big male leopard is seen more than once! The evening boat trip on the river didn't yield much and the morning walk was slightly curtailed because it was so hot! On the final morning drive we go to Kamasot, which is a vast open plain with long thatching reed grass: we see reedbucks, zebra, oribi, common duiker and finally hartebeest and sable. A great end to our stay here."

"Mwamba feels very remote and a big plus is that it has its own hide overlooking a waterhole which draws animals and birds when water is scarce. It was certainly very dry generally, with the Luangwa river low and able to be crossed by many animals. Drives often involved being close to the river, which was very beautiful, especially early and late in the day. Travelling to Zambia at this time of year is always going to be hot and on one notable afternoon the thermometer hit 44C.

The parched earth had lots of cracks which led to the downfall of a buffalo from a herd stalked in a most impressive way for an hour by seven lionesses. It tripped and broke its leg with fatal consequences. Another area with just a little water in the mud claimed two further buffalo that got stuck and made for more easy pickings for the felines. In fact lions were plentiful though leopard sightings much more scarce. However we did see three Luangwa specialities Thornicoft giraffe, Crawshay's zebra and Cookson's wildebeest.

The camp was closing for the season just after we left and we felt there was a bit of "school's out", particularly in the room housekeeping. However the food here was exceptional in its deliciousness and variety. One highlight not involving animals was the star bed. We LOVED it. If you get the chance it is a must!"

"This is one of the best camps we have been to in Africa and we totally understand why so many guests give it such glowing reviews and choose to return. The location is stunning and our room (number 2 at the junction of the Zambezi and a side channel) provided verandah safaris every day, notably elephants coming to bathe, drink and swim out to the islands.

During our stay there was the first heavy rainstorm of the season which cut short an evening game drive and which managers Mark and Madeline described as the worst they had experienced. But they took it in their stride, not making a drama out of the situation. Their skill was also to the fore in the arranging of a lunch "in" the Zambezi: tables, chairs, parasols, food and drink were transported to a sandbank by boat and we had an unforgettable time with our feet paddling in the water. The food was exceptional throughout.

Our guide Sebastian was top notch, especially his skill in finding leopards in very photogenic situations. We stayed six nights, which gave us plenty of time to explore the area. There was never a dull moment. Also the landscape available on game drives is hugely varied but most magical are the different forests of winterthorn, mahogany and ebony and the amazing dappled light.

Everything here is excellent: attention to detail without being overbearing and the staff are brilliant. We couldn't fault it."

"Located off the beaten track but only 10 minutes drive from Arusha airport.

Staff really friendly and helpful. We arrived after 10pm from Kilimanjaro and there was a lovely vegetarian meal waiting for us.

Great for the start or end of a safari."

"The camp is well placed in the centre of Tarangire National Park for exploring and during our five-night stay we had terrific sightings every day. The area round Silale swamp is specially beautiful and attracts lots of wildlife. We saw hardly any other jeeps and at the camp there were only a handful of other visitors.

Highlights included:

A family group of lions by the swamp who had recently killed a buffalo. One young male was so full he had to go in the water for a swim to cool off.

A magnificent male lion defending his buffalo kill from more than 100 vultures. After our bush breakfast that same day our brilliant guide Raj said "All we need now is a leopard up a tree" and within minutes he spotted one!
In line with Tarangire's reputation, there were more elephants here than at the other camps on the trip, lots bathing in the swamp.

At camp the staff were extremely welcoming and helpful under the guidance of manager Mollel. Food was plentiful and varied. For the moment there is separate dining unless guests request to be together. Quite a few animals wander round the camp even during the day including dik dik, bushbuck, waterbuck and lots of birds.

A slight downside is tsetse in parts of the park. Bites can be ferocious but, as we can attest, not everyone is a target. The camp is remarkably free of them."

"We prefer smaller, more traditional bush camps and didn't actually book Nanjukie. We had opted for Lemala's Ewanjan camp but the company had closed it because of reduced visitor numbers and we were "upgraded". Having said that the tented rooms are spacious, very well appointed and with amazing views across the Serengeti where you can "verandah safari" during the afternoon: we saw elephant, giraffe, waterbuck, impala, warthog, dik diks, buffalo, zebra, Thompson gazelles and baboons. The camp's location by kopjes means you have to be accompanied by an askari to and from your room at all times.

Lots of highlights thanks to our eagle-eyed guide Barnabas:
On the first evening game drive we were extremely lucky to see the melanistic serval hunting for rats in the long grass.

A full day out around Seronera and to the west (usually packed with vehicles) produced plentiful sightings with very few people about. A leopard up a tree still managed to draw in a few other jeeps. On other days we headed south and east and saw hardly anyone. On our last full day we were able to spend the best part of a morning at a kopje with a female leopard and her three cubs.

Being close to Namiri Plains this area has lots of big cats: we saw cheetah mum and four cubs, other cheetahs and lots of lions (including Ziggy Jnr, son of the TV star who we had first seen here in 2017). There are also HUGE numbers of Thomson gazelles.

At camp the staff were very welcoming. A special mention goes to Christina in the restaurant. The food was excellent apart from the bush breakfasts, which were not five-star. A better option is to go to the restaurant before you go out on your morning game drive. However, the bush lunch hampers for full days out are very good. On our last night there was a surprise private dining African meal by the pool followed by singing and dancing to mark our 40th wedding anniversary. There is separate dining here in any event, which will suit some.

Access to the camp is a 20-minute drive along the same route in and out every time but still offers varied sightings. We had a superb time with side-striped jackal parents with two sub adults.

Due to an admin mix-up by Lemala our visit didn't start well when there was no-one to collect us at Seronera air strip but once that was resolved (with the help of Coastal pilots and an Asilia guide) we had a superb five-night stay which exceeded our expectations."

"We were the only guests both at the camp and in the whole Lamai wedge for four of our five nights. It was like having your own personal camp and staff. Alex wasn't there but we were very well looked after by supervisors Thomas and Rehema.

It wasn't planned but we were surprised and privileged to see two major migration crossings of the Mara river (pretty late for a normal year). Guide Baraka timed it perfectly for us to be in the right place to witness this spectacle. We weren't prepared for what a thrilling experience this would be and it was enhanced considerably by there only being a handful of other jeeps when there would ordinarily be dozens. There was a good amount of water in the Mara and vultures were on hand to deal with the (remarkably few) wildebeest casualties. The numbers of these animals on the plains was astonishing. The only drawback was the numbers of flies they attract!

One evening we drove up to the Kenya border and on our last full day headed east for the Kuria hills, all the while enjoying the massive scenery and animals to ourselves. We saw all three big cats, lots of new babies of various species and an unusual albino hyena.

Transfers to Serian are always via the Lamai airstrip, even though Kogatende is closer, because of the unpredictable levels of the Mara. On our last evening there was torrential rain and you could see the immediate impact on the river. The journey to Lamai takes more than an hour.

At camp the tents are a good size but a bit gloomy and starting to feel a bit tired. Because it is a mobile camp there is no running water (only to flush the loo) but there are bucket showers and hot water is brought with your morning wake-up drink for a quick wash. The food here is five-star, the best we had on the trip, including brilliant bush breakfasts."

"This is really handy for arriving or heading back home from Kilimanjaro airport as it is only 10 minutes away.

The hotel collects you and delivers you back. We had a day room and a lovely surprise was an arrangement of petals on the bed saying Happy Anniversary. The rooms are modern, well appointed and with a private verandah. The food is limited but good. Staff as everywhere very friendly and helpful.

We were the only guests."

"We only stayed briefly, arriving mid evening and leaving early morning.

It is a lot larger than when we last visited several years ago and consequently has lost its small hotel appeal. Staff very friendly and helpful."

"The camp is quite isolated and the only other vehicles we saw were a handful of self drivers using the campsites in the area.

There had been some rain not long before our visit so wildlife was dispersed and a little harder to find. For most of the time we had ZimPro guide Moses, almost qualified Jean and tracker Changa so not much escaped their notice and there was a constant flow of knowledge and bush facts.

We enjoyed three walks and the biggest surprise was an aardwolf jumping out of long grass right beside us one early morning! We had memorable encounters on foot and in the jeep with lots of elephants.

Night drives were among the best we have ever had in Africa including sightings of African wildcats, genets and a wolf spider seen and located from an amazing distance, also the six lions known as the "SuperModels", which resulted in one of the best photos of the trip.

For vegetarians the food was hit and miss with lunch always better than dinner. Overall the staff were enthusiastic and knowledgeable but there was a hard to define lack of atmosphere at some meal times."

"In contrast to our stay at Camp Hwange in the west of the park there had been very little rain here so there were some large sightings round waterholes and solar-pumped pans, particularly elephant and buffalo.

Elephants played a very big part in our time at Somalisa (we saw several hundred in total), not least at the camp itself which is well known for attracting family groups to its water tank). It's amazing being that close. A couple of naughty younger males liked coming into camp to shake acacia pods of the trees for a tasty snack right by our tent. One pushed under our guy ropes and was photographed from the outside bathroom toilet seat just the other side of the canvas. You don't get much closer!.

Ray (Xoxindaba the storyteller) was our guide and great fun and generous with his 24 years of guiding knowledge. A highlight was seeing a lioness transferring her three cubs 500 yards from a waterhole to a day-time hideaway, carrying one youngster in her mouth. We also saw one leopard and one cheetah here plus sable.

All the camp staff, headed by Egania, were exceptionally friendly and helpful. For us, as vegetarians, the meals were the best of the three-camp trip. From our tent (number three ) we could see much of the action at the water tank."

"We were the first visitors of the season and had the camp to ourselves for a couple of nights. Owner Nick Murray and his wife were away at a trade fair and we were well looked after by manager Natalie and very experienced freelance guide Jim Mackie, who has an encyclopaedic knowledge of wildlife (no doubt helped by being a former park warden).

The scenery here is spectacular, from the views over the Zambezi as you fly in to the different landscapes as you explore the area.

Most people come here hoping to see painted dogs and we did so on three occasions (once on our own). Again it had been a poor wet season so waterholes were all but dry with animals relying on the river. Elephants were swimming or walking across the shallower parts.

Jim's night drives were very productive with sightings of genets, civets, hyena and white tailed mongoose. And he was brilliant at spotting and identifying birds. It's worth taking the afternoon canoe trip - avoiding the hippos and crocs! - to gain a different perspective.

We enjoyed several excellent bush walks including tracking three lionesses who had left their prints in camp overnight.

Breakfasts were a bit spartan so you were ready for the excellent lunches. The tents are extremely spacious and right on the edge of the Zambezi, giving this place a special atmosphere.

It's worth noting that in Mana Pools as a whole there are now no tsetse precautions being taken, though at one time they were eradicated."

"The feel at this tented bush camp is just right. Manager Louise and all her staff have got everything spot on.
The location is stunning overlooking a dam where lots of animals and birds come to drink and bathe. Most lunchtimes we were entertained by elephant, giraffe, buffalo and antelopes as well as the (always noisy) Egyptian geese and pelicans.
Ol Pejeta is an old cattle ranching area and the many water troughs around attract lots of wildlife and offer lots of photo opportunities. Guide Peter was excellent, especially in positioning the jeep for good pictures.
Staying five nights enabled us to reach most parts of the conservancy. It was quiet and we saw hardly any other vehicles while we were there. We had good sightings of many birds, also black and white rhino with offspring.
A special highlight was the discovery of lion cubs less than a week old 10 minutes from camp along with dad and his two lionesses. We had a very special sighting of the little ones. It was amazing to see the lionesses sprint off to help the male when an intruder male (and a large pack of hyena) threatened to make off with his stallion zebra kill at Elephant Corner.
The bush breakfasts were outstanding with different selections every day including baked egg with spinach and pea pastries. The choice of location for these was very good, notably two by rivers and one by a lake where we saw zebra, elephant and eland at close quarters.
Kicheche was our favourite of the three camps we stayed at on this trip and the food for vegetarians was the best we’ve had in Africa."

"The most striking thing about the camp is its position atop a hill, literally driving up a rocky mountainside to its warm welcome and spectacular views.
The villas are spread over a large area and are a good walk from the main dining/bar/meeting area. We had the "signature" villa, number five, which had 180 degree views and is almost the furthest away! The accommodation is very large with a lounge/dining area, bedroom and huge bathroom. The little outside seating area was impressively shaded by a massive boulder. A few maintenance issues let it down, for instance large holes and broken zips in the insect mesh.
The cuisine is Italian inspired served at the communal tables for both lunch and dinner. We found the lunches to be better for us as vegetarians than the dinners. The bush breakfasts were basic.
The camp is in the conservancy and a half hour drive from the national park entrance. The park itself proved to be the busiest of the three areas we visited. We weren't comfortable getting involved in a lion sighting that attracted 10 jeeps and a school bus. Having said that we had some spectacular viewings, including the successful hunting of a young Grant's gazelle by a cheetah with very small cubs,bat-eared foxes mating, and gerenuk browsing on their hind legs.
While wildlife may be a bit more shy and harder to spot in the conservancy, it is certainly worth spending time there. On the last full day of our five-night stay we saw a herd of 15 Grevy's zebra and caught a fleeting glimpse of an aardwolf.
The guides and staff are all traditionally dressed Samburu. Guide Simon and tracker Emanuel were good company with impressive spotting skills. One of the guides was getting married during our visit and we were very privileged to be invited to go along to part of the two-day Samburu celebrations."

"Elsa's is an hour's drive into the national park from the gate and is in an isolated position with no other nearby lodges. Six nights gave us a chance to explore areas less visited (although we needed to suggest this, probably because most people stay fewer nights).
Meru covers a huge area and a large part of it is off limits anyway because of the density of the bush. During our stay we didn't see any vehicles other than from the camp or driven by rangers.
This property is immaculately maintained and housekeeping second to none (thank you Christopher!).
All the staff were extremely helpful and friendly and the lunches very good for us as vegetarians. Dinners were a bit hit and miss (a bizarre main of rice and mashed potato for instance). Breakfasts were uninspired compared to Kicheche. We liked the individual dining as a change.
Sightings here were not as prolific as at Laikipia and Samburu but there were huge herds of buffalo, plenty of elephant and giraffe and a brilliant tally of birds, which guide Simon was expert in spotting.
We also saw two separate pairs of honey badgers (one racing off with a snake in its mouth), a striped hyena (which helped us find two lionesses and their four teenage boys) and a bachelor group of gerenuk. A visit to the protected rhino area (which is well worth visiting) yielded a total of 10 southern whites, including a very young one.
Particular features of the park are the huge palm trees and the number of rivers and streams running through. While some were dry, many were not and attract all manner of wildlife from insects and birds to hippo, elephant and buffalo. This offers great photographic opportunities.
Although there is quite a bit of memorabilia from the Elsa/Born Free story around the camp, very little is made of it when out on the drives."

"We spent two nights at Machweo. It was a handy starting point as about a hour from Kilimanjaro airport and just outside Arusha. The food was excellent at every meal and, although not far from the main road, the rooms quiet and clean.

Recommend visiting the Cultural Heritage Centre just on the other side of Arusha, which also boats a fabulous modern gallery displaying African art and sculpture and a craft centre. On leaving we had a small problem over a $60 charge for the taxi to the Cultural Centre. We pointed out that it stated it was free in the guest information folder. We hope that has now been made clear!"

"The Highlands is located in spectacular countryside with stunning views (at least from our dome which was nearest the communal area) .We spent four nights here (three full days) which was just right for the activities offered.

The accommodation is pretty luxurious and comfortable. The rooms do cool down at night but we didn't find them as cold in the morning as some have commented. The camp is nearly a hour's drive from the Ngorongoro crater entrance so an early start and a full day out with packed lunch is necessary. We expected the crater to be chocker with jeeps but it was relatively quiet.

On the other hand the half day hikes out to Olmoti and Empakai offer something a bit different - an opportunity to stretch your legs, tremendous views and hardly a tourist in sight. A degree of fitness is required though! The Masai village visit is also very interesting as it's quite natural and not a peep show like most tourists see. Asilia are involved with the local community and school. There were only a handful of other guests at the camp during our stay. Lunches were good but dinner (we're vegetarian) was very much a hit and miss affair."

"We booked for six nights at Namiri as we wanted to have as much time with cheetahs as possible - and were so glad we did. We saw them every day, including 12 during one morning game drive. A pride of lions was also in residence - and hunting buffalo - near the camp and we saw others on every drive, plus a caracal, African wild cat and an aardwolf (twice)! And fortunately for us - and a huge unexpected bonus - was that the great migration was very late and still passing though the area so on every drive there were enormous herds of wildebeest and zebra.

Staff at Namiri were uniformally excellent and the food good. The spacious tents look down to the river and the camp has a feel of quiet isolation. Although we saw a few other jeeps from other camps, they were on the limit of their range and many sightings were exclusive. It gets windy on the Serengeti so when it's dry the dust whips up. Be prepared. Special mention to manager Epimark for looking after us and to guide Kivuyo whose eyes are like binoculars and we later found out was Asilia's Guide of the Year 2016."

"Our last camp was Sayari where we spent five nights and were delighted to have the nearest tent to the spacious communal area (some are so far away that you need a ride). The tents are large, comfortable and very private with a welcome shady verandah with table, chairs and bean bags and a good view over the bush. Staff were very friendly and attentive and the food for vegetarians was the best we have eaten on any safari.

The wildlife viewing was extremely varied because of the nearby Mara river and the different habitats of surrounding countryside including very rocky areas, dense bush, open plains and rolling hills. Highlights for us were three separate close-quarters leopard sightings plus a couple of breakfasts on the spectacularly lovely border watching the Kenyan rangers watching us. An amusing moment was being with two splendid male lions who were totally relaxed until they suddenly became aware of several rangers on foot in the distance!

We really didn't expect to see so much and in such quantity (in many cases) at this time of the year. Special thanks to manager Jen, Freddie the chef and our guide Godson for his infectious enthusiasm."

"Our first stop. Staff very welcoming and the communal areas excellent with open views over waterhole towards dunes. Very large, immaculate and private personal space though we didn't use the rooftop bed as the nights were getting a bit cold. If you want to do all the activities and have a bit of relaxing time in between you really do need three nights as we had booked. Highlight of our stay was the (optional) sunrise balloon trip - expensive but not to be missed. Also the African wild cat we saw from our room! The vegetarian food was better than most of the other camps.

Sunrise Balloon Trip
Must-do experience
Four balloons were taking off that day and we were lucky to be in one for eight people (rather than 16!). Each couple has a corner so no jockeying for position. Conditions terrific and we followed the dry river bed towards the dunes landing after about 1¼ hours. Our pilot Rob demonstrated great skill in manoeuvring both vertically and horizontally: also at the champagne breakfast where he hacked off the neck of a bottle of champagne with a machete finally knocking off the end in a flourish of fizz! Although expensive it is an absolute must-do experience. Stunning, serene and a photographer's dream."

"Our second camp and another three-night stay. Staff again welcoming and friendly. Tents very comfortable and clean. Focus very much on the tracking of black rhino and we are lucky to see them each time we go out with the trackers. On the second morning we were SO lucky to be the only guests going out and had unforgettable experiences getting close to a mum and teenager then an old boy napping under a tree. Millionaire moments. Can be difficult terrain but it is hugely varied, often dramatic, across the reserve. Zone four, for instance has lots of green in the dry river beds. Bush lunches with the trackers were good. However, the evening meals for vegetarians were poor. The bush dinner defied any description and was probably the worst food we have ever had in Africa."

"Dramatic location with huge rooms that look like Bedhouin tents from the outside but with all mod cons in sleeping and living "pods". High-octane camp manager Clement is totally on everything! You really do need three nights here. We spent several hours with two lionesses and three cubs at very close quarters and tracked a small herd of desert-adapted elephants (of all ages, including very small) along the river bed. Also saw a rare brown hyena. The trip to the coast, including lunch on Garnet Beach, is full of surprises which we won't spoil for future visitors. Just make sure you go on it! Special thanks to all the staff for making a birthday celebration extra special - everyone had to get up and dance! Food again average for vegetarians (vegetable curry the first night and vegetable biriyani the second doesn't show a great deal of imagination)."

"We spent only two nights here, having thought that Etosha would be very busy (which we try to avoid). In fact we wished we had spent another night as Little Ongava was the best accommodation of the trip ... and the best vegetarian food! The chalets are huge and immaculate, also very, very private. Because there are only three chalets, the communal area is quiet with an intimate atmosphere. Louis the manager gets a special mention. The regular guide was on sick leave but Michael was a very good replacement. In the event, we had a half day in Etosha with him (no other guests) and were pleasantly surprised: with the exception of the watering holes it was easy to get away from other vehicles. During two evening drives we walked with white rhino in Ongava's reserve. The chef showed imagination with his veggie options and we had a magnificent packed lunch on the day we departed. The Ongava camps are no longer part of Wilderness Safaris."

"This was very different to all our other accommodation on the trip as it is a basic bush camp with open-fire kitchen. It is a walking camp run and guided by the owner Bruno. Stayed three nights during which time we were the only guests in the camp with him and his helper Tommy. From the moment we arrived we did not get in a vehicle until the day we left. This is all about the reserve Bruno has set up for endangered species and his encyclopaedic knowledge. He was the most informative and knowledgeable guide of the trip. The weather was unseasonably hot which led to some steamy bush walks as the sun rose in the sky. There are hides by the tents which are rewarding. Best of all was a full early morning walk to a large water hole attracting all manner of visitors. Despite the basic facilities the vegetarian food was better than most of the other camps. It is an intensely personal experience and it is a privilege to share in Bruno's vision."

"Our last stop of the trip and for two nights. First impressions were that it might all be quite contrived but not a bit of it. We encountered surprisingly few other vehicles on our drives (the guides actually communicate to try to avoid each other which is unlike many camps when finding a special animal). Yes many of the cats are collared but sightings don't seem at all artificial. The photographic opportunities with leopard and cheetah are absolutely unrivalled. Possibly the most magic moments of the whole trip were walking within 10 paces of the fastest mammal on the planet. The Africat Centre does a magnificent job rehabilitating and (sometimes) releasing big cats and you are missing the point if you don't make time to visit. The central area of the camp is more hotel-like than some but the chalets offer excellent accommodation with outdoor sitting room (overlooking a little watering hole and with seed to feed the birds). Vegetarian food again very disappointing."

"This was the first camp of three on our 15-night trip. We stayed five nights and it totally exceeded our expectations. This proved a terrific time of year to visit: although the bush had sprung into life we still saw a huge variety of wildlife including triplet lion cubs. Water levels were high enabling us to enjoy two boat trips: one as far as Lake Nzerakera, which had been dry just a few weeks before.

The staff were very welcoming, helpful and friendly. Our guide Ezra and driver Kharidi were top notch. We are not birders but this is the best season for them as there are many migratory species and Ezra's enthusiasm certainly rubbed off. This was the only camp where we could have game drives, boat trips and walks: each evening we were asked what we would like to do the following day.

Dining at Impala is different with individual tables rather than communal and at a different location each night. We liked this as being a bit different. As vegetarians we enjoyed wonderful and varied food, no doubt inspired by Fausto, the Italian camp manager. The tents are perfectly clean and functional but may be coming up to needing some refurbishment. This did not interfere with our enjoyment in any way. An early highlight was a huge welcoming herd of impala greeting us on the road as we drove from the airstrip: how appropriate!"

"Beho Beho was the second of three camps during our trip. We stayed five nights at each and this was the most luxurious. It is in a spectacular location made even more so by the rains bringing new life to the bush. The wildlife was plentiful and varied. The flocks of carmine bee-eaters following the jeep for the insects it disturbed are worth a special mention. A particular highlight were the bush breakfasts: one being a full cooked meal by the side of Lake Tagalala watching hippos and crocodiles. That was an amazing day.

You don't get the same guide each time and this unique approach does offer different perspectives and areas of expertise. We enjoyed all of them. During our drives we hardly saw another jeep adding to the whole experience of having the place to yourself. We were lucky to go on two walks with Walter (the manager) which were wonderfully informative. On the second we were flagging a bit with the heat and wondering at what point we were going to be heading back only to be greeted by a table on a hill with sundowners at the ready. Attention to detail here is second to none.

The open-fronted stone bandas seemed a bit of a scary concept but in fact proved quite cool during the hot afternoons and attracted surprisingly few insects when lights were on. For most of the time there were only two other guests. We ate communally at different locations: for example by the pool or Beho's own watering hole. On our last morning we had a very special wake-up call by an elephant at the front of our banda!"

"This was our third and final camp. We stayed five nights and really didn't want to leave! Ruaha at this time of year is truly magical: lush and varied landscapes giving up their wonderful wildlife secrets and a true feeling of isolation. We saw huge numbers of elephants - on a couple of occasions more than 100 at once. We saw lions every day and at the end of one evening drive found a cheetah with the help of three very focused giraffes and our guide Lorenzo. The amount and variety of wildlife and birds was a revelation.

During the course of our stay we encountered only a couple of other vehicles in the vastness of the national park. Although you can't go off road here it didn't seem to make much difference. We still had fantastic close encounters and not only with the cats. Very special were the tiny dick-dick and klipspringers: two of the smallest antelopes. Lorenzo and his Masai assistant Daudi were a joy to be with and great fun. Lorenzo is a mine of information and has boundless enthusiasm for his subject. Every day was a great adventure.

The camp has been recently taken over by Asilia and new manager Sandy is a fabulous host. Again all the staff were friendly and helpful and our vegetarian diet was magnificently catered for. The camp is simple but stylish, comfortable and clean, with widely spaced individual tents. We felt like we were the only ones in the bush as we drifted off to sleep to the sound of lionesses calling from the nearby Mwagussi river."

"The hotel is in an excellent location and ideal being just a short walk to Victoria Falls. The staff were very friendly and helpful and the quality and choice for vegetarians in the evening was surprisingly good.

We did think the bedroom and bathroom were a little tired and needed updating. But both were clean and this didn't detract from the two nights we spent there.

We were surprised to be starting our wildlife sightings here with mongoose, hippo and warthogs in the hotel garden.

We enjoyed a sunset cruise on the hotel's boat Ra Ikane which, though quite expensive, proved to be a terrific experience thanks to the skipper and his mate."

"Lebala was our first experience of an African bush camp and we enjoyed every minute. The proximity of hippo and elephant to our tent during the night was really quite a buzz. The game drives during our two-night stay were terrific thanks to the guide and tracker. The two sundowner drives at this camp were the best thanks to the choice of location.

The camp was full and we felt that this was the maximum number of other guests that we would want to interact with on this sort of holiday."

"This camp is in a fabulous location and the accommodation was the most sumptuous of the three we stayed at. Again the guide and tracker were very helpful and informative.

Without leaving the camp we were able to enjoy elephants crossing the river and even wandering through the site. We very much enjoyed the evening boat cruise and the chance to stretch our legs on a walk."

"This was our last camp and we stayed for four nights. It was the smallest with five tents and a total of nine guests. That suited us very well.

The guide and tracker were very pro-active and on a number of occasions we actively tracked animals rather than seeing what turned up. Dutch the guide was very good at positioning the vehicle to get the best light for photographs. Both he and the other guide Tom proved good company at mealtimes and were a mine of information.

All the guests were leaving on the same day so we had a great farewell dinner with dancing and singing. The accommodation here may be a little more basic but our tent was in a great location overlooking the lake and in our eyes was just as good as the other two camps. Particular highlights for us were: watching Dutch and Chester go through the fascinating process of tracking (and finding!) cheetahs; the evening boat dash back from the heronry and our mokoro trip with Tom at the helm and hippos watching our every move."