Travel reviews by Mrs K from Toro
Review Distribution
Total number of trips
1
Countries visited
1
Lodges stayed in
4
Excursions taken
0
The Bateleur safari: highlights and tips
Namibia between 5 Oct 2007 and 14 Oct 2007
An amazing sight was the wreck of an old Russian cargo vessell which is now colonized by hundreds of Cormorants. They sit lined up in rows all along the spars and masts and every other available surface.
After the boat trip we drove towards Swakopmund, with sand dunes on the right and the sea on the left. We saw flocks of Flamingoes in the lagoons, as well as people dune-boarding and ballooning. When we stopped, it was to enjoy a seafood picnic on the beach, under canvas - fresh-shucked oysters (very sweet tasting), calamari, hake, salads, wine.
Mid-afternoon, after a short visit in town, we took off for Damaraland, now flying over entirely different scenery - wild and mountainous, the airstrip looking like a thin white line in the middle of utter wilderness.
This was a truly memorable day.
I should also like to mention Etango Guest Ranch. We booked a day room here, with transfers, as it is just a few minutes from the airport. Units are very comfortable and well-equipped, and are air-conditioned, so we were well rested for the long trek home. Just before we left in the evening, Carmen thoughtfully sent over a complimentary snack of cold cuts and cheese. There was already a coffee/tea tray in the room.
This is a fine place to start or end a safari, and we would not hesitate to do so again. However, in terms of longer stays it should be noted that the majority of guests at this Ranch are Afrikaans-speaking, or German/Dutch tourists, and that it also serves as a base for Hunting Safaris.
Final comments: Our luggage, including hand luggage was well within the 12kg. restriction. This was no problem as laundry service at all 3 camps was excellent, being picked up during breakfast and delivered back during dinner the same day. We had, as you advised, sweaters and windproof jackets for the chilly mornings and nights. Unfortunately, we had a freak cold front with bitter winds while at Sossusvlei, and these garments were not nearly enough. I surely regretted not packing my warm longjohns and vest. It should be stressed that normal weather patterns can no longer be relied on, anywhere in the world, including Africa - leave out something else if you have to, but pack plenty of layers. I ended up buying a fleece vest at the Camp. I don't suppose I'll ever wear it again, but It makes a nice souvenir of the trip.
I think I've said it all! I feel the information you give, both in your brochure and on the webiste, is the most honest and most balanced of any of the Tour Operators we have dealt with. Wish we could plan another trip with you, but Namibia - alas- is our last safari. All best wishes for your continued success."
Arranged By Tracy Lederer

Olive Grove
"Lovely stay at Olive Grove"
A popular option for people wanting to relax near Windhoek but who also want to see a different part of Namibia, is to venture out into the bush to one of the guesthouses or lodges within a couple of hours drive from the city. As Eningu Clayhouse Lodge is situated in the Kalahari it is a popular option for a two night stop, where you can relax without having a long transfer from Windhoek. Okonjima is another possible option. This is an interesting place to experience some of the work in conserving big cats done by the AfriCat Foundation here. As an aside, please note that the vast majority of the cats that live or pass through Okonjima are not fitted with monitoring collars.

Mountain Homestead, Namibia (this camp has since closed)
"Dramatic Dunes at Sossuvlei Wilderness Camp"
The early morning drive to the dunes was spectacular, the colours changing with the changing light ,and fine sand blowing like smoke from the peaks. We saw quite a bit of wildlife on the way - many Ostrich, Oryx, herds of Springbok and birds such as Shrike and Falcon. Etched in my memory is the sight of a lone Springbok high on a ridge, perfectly silhoutted against a bright blue sky.
We had an extremely good guide in Marco, who is not only knowledgeable and conscientious but very kind. We are an elderly couple and Marco took particular care to ensure we did not miss out on anything that was within our capabilities. This is a very nice young man indeed, and an excellent guide."
Not currently featured by Expert Africa

Damaraland Camp
"Fun Staff at Damaraland Camp"
Food was the best of the 3 camps, with wonderful breads at breakfast and good filter coffee. On the second night, we had dinner in the Bumi; beautifully lit by candle-lanterns, all the food cooked over an open fire, and lots more singing. Anyone who enjjoys interacting with local people on their travels, and appreciates wild, mountainous scenery (some of it very similar to Monument Valley), will thoroughly enjoy this camp, as we did. However, because of the limited activites available, a 2 night stay was just about right.
The major activity was the game drive to track Desert Elephant and we were lucky enough to spot 2 Bulls, and then a small herd, with babies, in amongst the trees. Later on, we drove up to a look-out point for refreshments and a spectacular panoramic view.
I do have one complaint. The tents are accessed via narrow, winding gravel paths bordered by rocks. Unlike the other 2 camps, these paths are not lit in any way and can be quite treacherous, as it is easy to miss your footing and stumble over the rocks. Heavy-duty torches are kept in the office, but if you forget to ask for one at lunch or tea, you are in the dark for the walk to dinner. Also, if you do get one, it is removed from the tent next morning. We had with us an emergency penlight but this was useless for the purpose. The Bumi dinner was somewhat marred by this problem. It's a bit of a hike first to the main lodge and then to the Bumi, and while we did have a staff member with a torch leading the crocodile of guests, this really only illuminated sufficiently for the first in line.
I most strongly suggest that a heavy-duty torch be provided for each tent and kept there, so that it is available each evening."
In fact in November 2006 Damaraland Camp won the 2006 Imvelo Tourism Award
for Best single resource management programme - Energy.
The Imvelo Responsible Tourism Awards recognise operations in tourism and hospitality that make a "real, measurable and sustained contribution to responsible tourism."
The category of which Damaraland was a winner - Best single resource management programme - judges entrants on "operational efforts made to reduce and manage water, energy or waste". Damaraland Camp uses uncontaminated water from a borehole five kilometres away, and once used, this water is disposed of in an environmentally-friendly manner. "Grey water" from showers and basins waters natural vegetation while waste water is contained in a two-chamber tank to allow for biological activity. Waste is trucked from the camp to Windhoek for proper recycling, and energy for light and hot water is obtained via solar power. Gas is used for cooking and refrigeration and a coal cooling system is used for cooling fresh vegetables.
The successful partnership between the Damaraland Community and Wilderness Safaris has resulted in one of the poorest communities in the world becoming a thriving entity; this has been achieved directly through conservation and tourism. Thanks to the implementation of a viable eco-tourism model, around 350 000 hectares of land are under protection in the newly proclaimed Torra Conservancy, wildlife numbers are thriving and the local community have money in the bank and employment. The Camp and this initiative received the World Travel & Tourism Council's (WTTC) Tourism for Tomorrow Conservation Award 2005 and was the first Southern African rural community to win the prestigious UNDP Equator Prize in 2004.

Ongava Tented Camp
"Surrounded at Ongava Tented Camp"
We had a game drive on the property with Binius, and saw lots, including Giraffe, White Rhino and a pride of Lions under a tree. The night drive was also good, and although we did not see specifically nocturnal animals, we did see plenty of game including herds of different antelope resting, their eyes reflecting our spotlight. It was lovely to be out in the soft night air with stars shining so brightly in the clear African sky.
The highlight was our day in Etosha, and we had an excellent guide in Elaine. Stopping at the different waterholes provided breathtaking sights of huge herds of mixed animals, and many more spread out over the surrounding plains. We found, as always, being close to wild animals is a moving and highly emotional experience. Game viewing in Etosha was quite different from our previous safaris: we had seen plenty of large herds of individual animals, particularly in Botswana, but not these huge mixed herds with different animals interacting and taking their place in the scheme of things. it did come to mind that this, perhaps, is how the world once was.
No matter how many safaris you have done, Etosha should not be missed.
I do have 2 comments, both concerning this day. Firstly, it is far too long a time from 6 a.m. (very light) breakfast until 2 p.m. or later (fairly light) lunch. A snack to have with the cold drinks would have been welcome. Or better still, a packed lunch, like we had on the dune drive from Wilderness Camp, thus allowing us to stay out as long as possible. After all, most of us will pass this way but once.
My second point is that, only after we were underway, did we learn that we would stop at a complex which (as well as toilets) had gift shops selling postcards, information on the Park, and a Post Office. None of our group had brought any money and thus the one couple who had their credit card were the only ones able to buy anything, including a very useful small book illustrating the animals and birds we were about to see. We did have with us the Wildlife Guide from Chris McIntyre's excellent Brandt Guide to Namibia whcih was of some help - though not with the birds - and owing to luggage restrictions, we did not bring along our other reference books. I do feel information about this stop en-route should be made available ahead of time."
Spacious en-suite with quality toiletries, hairdryer, fine cotton robes, and artisan candles for that romantic bath. Breakfast from a comprehensive menu served on the patio:dinner by request. Just because nothing is absolutely perfect I would mention that a luggage stand would be useful for guests on an overnight who will not be unpacking.
We were sorry to have only one night. We had originally wanted to add a couple of days to the Bateleur but were not attracted by either Eningo (OK for overnight) or Okonjima (I am against monitoring devices on wildlife). Should you have a similar request, you might suggest a pre-safari stay at Olive Grove relaxing on the sundeck by the pool, and then daytrips for sightseeing into Windhoek and surroundings."