Xakanaxa: Our full report

Camp Xakanaxa is a traditional-style camp located in one of the most beautiful areas of the Okavango Delta.

Set in the north-east of the public area of Botswana’s Moremi Game Reserve, the whole camp – widely known simply as Xakanaxa – is shaded by Kigelia and leadwood trees overlooking the Xakanaxa Lagoon. The game viewing in this area has historically been very good.

The camp is one of three that occupy this area of Moremi, known as the Mopane Tongue.

From the reception area at the entrance to Xakanaxa, where there is a small curio shop, a short pathway leads around a well-maintained lawn to the camp's main area. Constructed of local timber, reed and thatch, this is raised on stilts to maximise the views over the lagoon in front. The lounge area, decorated in deep reds, has a couple of seating areas with very comfortable chairs, a small library and a help-yourself bar. The front opens onto an expansive deck which in turn leads to an open-sided dining area. Here you'll dine at one of two long tables beneath an impressive, lantern-lit chandelier.

Jutting out over the lagoon, and making the most of the view, is a central fireplace, shaded by a giant jackalberry tree and surrounded by very comfortable deckchairs. This is a great place to relax during the afternoons or enjoy a couple of pre- or post-dinner drinks.

There are watery views from a small plunge pool, too, set on the edge of the lagoon with a shaded sala and a number of loungers. While this can't be beaten for location, those in search of exercise might be drawn instead to the much larger swimming pool at the side of the main reception area.

Xakanaxa’s 12 Meru-style tents, which were rebuilt in early 2020, all stand on wooden decks with verandas overlooking the lagoon. They're fairly close together, so it is sometimes possible to hear your neighbours, but reed screens and the surrounding lush riverine vegetation ensure that you won't be able to see them. Beside the pathway that leads to each tent is an iron sculpture of an animal that you may see on your safari.

From a private deck looking over the lagoon, a sliding mesh door leads inside, revealing wooden floors with a large oriental rug, mesh windows with roll-down flaps, and twin beds or a double beneath a mosquito net and celling fan. A couple of reading lights sit on the headboard above the bed and there’s a small two-person sofa at the foot.

There's also a writing desk with camp information, a multi-plug socket for charging electricals and a reading light. The luggage rack is small, so travellers may struggle to get two bags on it, but behind the bed are some shelves and an open hanging unit. Every tent also has a free-standing fan and an electronic safe, and hot-water bottles are provided on cold nights, between May and July.

At the back of each tent through a wooden door is an en-suite bathroom with a hot shower, twin basins and a flushing toilet. Dressing gowns, soaps, shampoo and body lotion are provided, and there is a hairdryer in every tent.

The family tent is made up of two standard tents connected by a short corridor. The second bedroom has a fold-out sofa and another bed can be added, allowing up to three children to share. Note, however, that the rooms share bathroom facilities so would not suit friends travelling together.

Activities at Xakanaxa include game drives during the day in open 4WD safari vehicles, and boat cruises on the lagoons. However, mokoro trips have been suspended indefinitely in all of the camps along the Moremi Game Reserve's Mopane Tongue area.

Motorboat trips are an ideal way to explore the large, adjacent Xakanaxa Lagoon and its surrounding channels – an area that is especially good for birding in the spring and summer months (December to April), when the migrants are breeding. These trips also provide the best opportunity to track down a sitatunga, one of the area’s most elusive and seldom-seen antelope.

Both game viewing and birding are very good in the Moremi Game Reserve, and this area has historically provided excellent wildlife watching – as it did on our last visit in December 2023. However, unlike in the private concessions of the Delta, night drives and walking safaris are not allowed, and game vehicles may not drive off the tracks – even if interesting game is spotted further away. This can be particularly challenging in the green season, when tall grass can obscure sightings and sometimes hide animals entirely.

Xakanaxa aims to have no more than six guests per game-drive vehicle, but when the camp is busy they can take up to nine. This makes Xakanaxa a very good option, particularly for those wanting a friendly, well-established camp with a less restrictive price tag then many of the camps in Botswana during the “peak” dry season. For keen photographers, birdwatchers or those who would like more space, private vehicles and specialist guides can be arranged, subject to availability and for an additional charge.

Travellers should be aware that Xakanaxa sits between Camp Moremi and Okuti, with a public campsite close by as well. This, and the fact that self-drivers frequent the reserve, can lead to heightened vehicle concentration, especially as guides from the three camps communicate about sightings by radio. However, we feel that the historically superb game viewing in this area outshines the number of vehicles.

Our view

We're always slightly hesitant about using camps within the national parks because of the number of self-drive vehicles around, and the restrictive park rules. However, as long as you accept that there are likely to be more vehicles within the park than in one of the Okavango Delta's private reserves, it is a great option for high densities of wildlife at a relatively affordable price – particularly during the dry season.

Tom Morris

Botswana expert

Geographics

Location: Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana
Ideal length of stay: Two to three nights are ideal at Xakanaxa.
Directions: The flight by light aircraft to Xakanaxa Airstrip takes around 25 minutes from Maun or an hour from Kasane, followed by a 10–15-minute transfer by game vehicle to camp.
Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer

Food & drink

Usual board basis: Full Board & Activities
Food quality: While we didn’t stay at Xakanaxa on our last visit in December 2023, but did enjoy some excellent food at its sister camp Camp Moremi next door. We would expect the food here to be of a similar style and quality. The menu reflected below is taken from a previous visit. We understand that with sufficient notice the team at Xakanaxa can cater for most dietary requirements.

Before heading out on the morning activities, a light breakfast of cereal, yoghurt, muffins, toast and fresh fruit is served, alongside tea, coffee and a selection of juice.

You'll return from the morning activities to brunch. During our stay this consisted of delicious fish cakes, a vegetable casserole, broccoli and mixed walnut salad, red-cabbage salad, and a hot breakfast of bacon, sausages and mushrooms with eggs cooked to order, plus freshly baked cinnamon bread, fresh fruit and a cheese platter.

For afternoon tea, just before the start of the afternoon activity, we were offered homemade lemonade and iced tea, together with sausage rolls and a very gooey chocolate cake. For a guest who was gluten intolerant the camp had made a savoury gluten-free muffin and there was fresh cut fruit.

Dinner is served after the afternoon activity. We enjoyed vegetable soup to start with, followed by beef fillet or sweet and sour pork, served with salad, beans, pasta, mashed potato and butternut squash. To finish there was a chocolate and Amarula mousse.
Dining style: Group Meals
Dining locations: Indoor Dining
Further dining info, including room service: Private dining and meals for special occasions are available on request.
Drinks included: Soft drinks, local-brand spirits, house wines and beer are included at Xakanaxa. Premium brands are excluded but are available at extra charge.

Each tent is provided with glasses and a flask of drinking water, which is replenished daily. We don't recommend that travellers drink from the tap.

Special interests

Wildlife safaris: Xakanaxa Camp is right in the middle of the Xakanaxa area of the Moremi Game Reserve, one of the best areas for wildlife safaris in Botswana. With excellent densities of game and birdlife, the only drawback is that you will often have to share game sightings with other vehicles.; See ideas for Wildlife safaris

Children

Attitude towards children: Xakanaxa welcomes families with children of six years and older, who are allowed on game activities.
Property’s age restrictions: Minimum age six
Special activities & services: There are board games and books for children available in the family tent. The camp can also arrange activities for children such as football, pizza making or an interpretive bush walk. It is also possible to arrange for camp staff, often the housekeepers, to child sit during meals and siesta. While these staff usually have children of their own, they don’t tend to be qualified childcare professionals.
Equipment: Xakanaxa has a family tent, and for children aged 5–12, an extra bed can be put into a double room. A triple room for adults is not permitted.
Generally recommended for children: Xakanaxa has a friendly, laid-back feel, so could be a great option for those travelling with teenagers, provided that they have a genuine interest in wildlife and nature. Note that while the camp is surrounded by an electric fence to keep elephants out, most other wildlife, including hippos, buffalo, and predators, can get in. Furthermore, there are unguarded, unfenced pools, and easy access to the lagoon, so we would not recommend this camp for those travelling with younger children.
Notes: Xakanaxa is on the water's edge and is very open, with dangerous big game wandering through regularly, so parents must take full responsibility for supervision of their children at all times.

Communications

Power supply notes: There is a back-up generator in case of cloudy days or other power interruptions.

Each tent has a plug point for charging electrical equipment.
Communications: There is no cellphone coverage at Xakanaxa, but there is WiFi in the main area and the tents.
TV & radio: There is no television or radio at Xakanaxa.
Water supply: Borehole
Water supply notes: The camp uses a reverse osmosis machine to filter the water from the Delta. All the tents have plumbed hot and cold running water for showers, and flushing toilets.

Health & safety

Malarial protection recommended: Yes
Medical care: The nearest doctor is in Maun. Management and guides are first-aid trained and medical evacuation is available in an emergency. In addition to this, a government mobile clinic frequents the area.
Dangerous animals: High Risk
Security measures: Guests are escorted to their tents after dark as wildlife is known to wander through the camp. “Fog horns” are provided in the tents to summon help in case of emergency after dark.

There is a three-strand electric fence around the back of the camp. This is designed to keep elephants out of the camp as they can be destructive to the trees as well as dangerous.
Fire safety: Each tent has a fire extinguisher.

Activities

4WD Safari
Birdwatching
Boat trip

Extras

Disabled access: On Request
Laundry facilities: A full complimentary laundry service is included.
Money: No exchange facilities are offered at Xakanaxa. There is a small safe in each of the tents.
Accepted payment on location: Mastercard and Visa cards are accepted (with a surcharge); Diners and Amex are not. Cash payments may be made in the form of South African rand, GB sterling, US dollars, euros and Botswana pula.